The latest updates concerning attempts at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125m) Pakistan. On the Diamir Face Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have decided to join forces along the Kinshofer route, and Bielecki fell, fortunately without hurting himself. Elisabeth Revol and Tomek Mackiewicz are working their way up the Messner route, as are Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger who have established their Camp 2. On the other side of the mountain, on the Rupal Face, a Polish expedition led by Marek Klonowski has established Camp 2 at 6200m along the Schell route.
Daniele Nardi, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Adam Bielecki and Jacek Tcech have opted to join forces and fix ropes together along the Kinshofer route. The agreement was made as both teams plan on climbing the same route and since the Poles have now abandoned the initial idea of attempting the route in alpine style. Nardi and Bielecki climbed to circa 5800m yesterday, just below the Kinshofer Wall when Bielecki fell circa 80 meters. Due to the accident both returned to base camp.
Nardi, Txikon and Sadpara had hauled all necessary equipment onto the mountain. Monday morning Nardi, Bielecki and Tcech ascended to Camp 1, aiming to recover the gear stashed at 2700m by Txikon and Sadpara. The plan was to fix ropes to the Kinshofer Rocks, located between 5950m and 61250m. Tcech descended on Monday from 5400m after having deposited his gear, while Nardi and Bielecki continued.
“We were 200 meters below the Kinshofer Wall and a further 200 meters below Camp 2” explained Nardi. “We had climbed very quickly, even considering our heavy loads. We stashed the excess gear at 5700m and began climbing: Adam took the lead, we had circa 400m of ropes, he crossed the icy gully and belayed at circa 5800m. I heard him hammer in a peg and saw him prepare an anchor, then something happened and he fell. He tumbled for circa80m During the sudden fall there was nothing I could do but lock off the rope and wait for the load. I was sure that the two ice screws we’d driven into the hard ice would hold the fall. Fortunately Adam fell down a face that had no protruding rocks. I then lowered him to the previous belay. Had he broken something it wouldn’t have been easy to carry him down, luckily though he walked away with some bruises after having lost some gear. We’d almost reached the easier section and while for a moment Adam considered continuing, I was sure we’d better descend. We returned to Camp 1 and then Base Camp, where I attended to his wounds. During the descent Adam smiled and thanked me. We’d just faced difficult moment together. We’ll celebrate now. ”
Nardi and Bielecki joined Txikon and Sadpara at Camp 1, from where the latter plan to set off towards Camp 2. This year the Kinshofer route is extremely icy and has very little snow, making conditions more difficult compared to last year. In the next few days the team will decide how it intends to proceed.
NANGA PARBAT WINTER 2015/2016
At present various expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat. On the Diamir Face, apart from the newly combined team composed of Nardi, Txikon, Sadpara, Bielecki and Tcech, there are Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger, attempting to climbed the 2000 Messner route. A few days ago the Italians established Camp 2 between 5700m and 5800m. France’s Elisabeth Revol, Poland’s Tomek Mackiewicz and Pakistan’s Arslan Ahmed Ansari are currently attempting the same route. The Nanga Dream Justice for All expedition is operating on the Rupal Face. Led by Marek Klonowski and composed of 7 Poles and 2 Pakistani mountaineers, this expedition is attempting the Schell route and today they confirmed that Camp 2 (6200m) has been established, that they have fixed ropes and that in two days time they will return to the mountain.