The series ‘Crags for each season’ published together with continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck – Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy’s South Tyrol.

Spelonca - Spiluck Photo by © Markus Hofer climbing Lobos Traum (7a+), Spelonca/Varna

Spelonca – Spiluck
Photo by ©
Markus Hofer climbing Lobos Traum (7a+), Spelonca/Varna

With the new climbing area Spiluck a little paradise has been created close to Vahrn , near the city of Brixen. Apart from the fantastic view onto the Geislerspitzen, thanks to the time and hard work of the local climbers it now offers superb sport climbing and bouldering. The area’s potential has yet to be exploited fully and many new routes and boulder problems will be established here in the future.

The special granite and gneiss makes the climbing diverse and interesting. The crag offers challenging routes on vertical and overhanging walls, while the the stunning panorama onto the Dolomites renders the experience even more special. Since the routes are quite new, wearing a helmet is recommended. New sectors will be developed in due course, such asset Kinderwandl, a wall with easier routes ideal children.

The bouldering area with about 70 problems is not the biggest in South Tyrol. But the boulders often require creativity and spectacular moves on slopers, small crimps and other types of holds. The sectors are located in the shady and quiet forest and although some of the boulders reach a considerable, almost scary, height, the landings are always good. To sum it up: Spelonca has all the necessary ingredients for a beautiful bouldering area.

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The development of this new climbing area has been made possible only thanks to the collaboration and help of many people. After long talks with the landowners, with the alpine club and the villagers, after devoting a lot of free time to bolting and brushing the rock, the local climbers have managed to create this beautiful area for everyone. The collaboration of the town council, landowners and local climbers was unique and exemplary. In particular the financial support of the local Varna council and the tireless work of the forestry commission, which established the paths and safety cordons, created the necessary basis for the project “Climbing at Spelonca / Spiluck”.
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TOPO: Spiluck, Brixen

– Spiluck – Spelona, Brixen
– Ciastlins, San Vigilio di Marebbe
– Stohlwond, Racines, Vipiteno
– Salares, Valparola
– Calamancina, San Vito lo Capo
– Würzjoch – Passo delle Erbe, Dolomites
– Frea, Passo Gardena, Dolomites

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