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News Desk

Laila Peak first winter summit:Alex and Jose Manuel Hernandez Txikon summit Laila Peak today, after 10 hours of hard climb  up to the summit of Laila peak 6096m and four down to Camp II, this was the very  first winter of the summit ofo Laila Peak. Both the climbers are back to CII over three hours I. They are exhausted, but well. Tomorrow will come down to Base Camp. In brief chronicle of the day hang and words.Congratulations to them both 

Update on Broad peak

Feb, 17: Adam Bielecki and Artur Malek failed to pass a crack at 7,820 and returned to C3. They are going to spend a night 17th/18th February in C3. Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski, who have been approaching today from camp 2, have passed camp 3 and put up an assault tent at 7,400 m, in which they are going to spend a night.
The bivouac site is in the site that Amin and Shaheen reached on 16th February and where they left a deposit. Amin and Shaheen returned to the base camp still on 16th February. On 18th February Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski are going to attempt the summit, starting from the bivouac at 7,400 m – the altitude is still quite low, but goof weather forecasts give the team a greater chance to succeed.

info from Feb, 16: Adam Bielecki and Artur Malek have reached C3. Maciej Berbeka, Tomasz Kowalski and Karim ascended to C2. Weather during Feb, 16 has been extremely bad. Adam and Artur plan for Feb.17 to set camp 4, so that they may set off towards the peak today. Crossing fingers!!! (sourse: http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl)

Rescue launched for Joel on Nanga Parbat Explorerweb

ExplorersWeb has received news that a recue has been launched for the French solo climber on Nanga Parbat. 

On February 6th Joel Wischnewski updated his Winter Nanga Parbat journal with a short report, “Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I’m going to try the S-E pillar. I’ve got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following.” No further updates since then. 

The previous day he said he was trapped inside his tent for two days. […] “Constant belly pain today but it’s ok.. I think.. I don’t care.” (On February 3 he reported he was losing blood from is intestines.) 

He added, “I’m a little worried for the other climbers, like the Poles on Schell route. Hopefully they are safe. Fida is looking for my visa extension. If possible I would like to stay here up to the 21st March, which is the end of my permit and the end of winter. Beside my family, there’s nothing good for me in France and I prefer to stay here, even in storms, till the last moment.” 

“I also need perfect conditions to climb, otherwise it’s way too risky. My route is very technical and exposed. I cannot climb like the other teams are doing.”

Rescue operation report from Muhammad Ali

Yesterday word arrived at ExplorersWeb about details regarding the situation around Wischnewski on Nanga Parbat from Muhammad Ali, Managing Director of AP, Joel’s trekking agency: 

“His family, and of course also we from Adventure Pakistan, are very worried about him and therefore a rescue operation has been launched, below you can find the most recent developments:”

“This morning (February 17th) the three high altitude porters have reached the Rupal wall of Nanga Parbat and have started to go up the mountain. (This team will continue to climb as high as they can go in their search for Joel.) At the same time today Fida (Guide with Joel), along with two local porters, has also continued to search the area of camp 1.”

“Our last contact with “base camp” has been around 1pm today (17th) – after that we have continuously tried to reach the team on their satellite phone but unfortunately without success. (the land lines also do not seem to be working, this is most likely due to heavy snow fall.)”

February 16th

“Today our Guide Fida along with two police constables from the local police station went up to camp 1 to find Joel but returned without success.”

“Meanwhile I have moved three highly experienced high altitude porters from Skardu (who have climbed several 8000 plus peaks and did several successful rescue mission in Baltoro region led by Kazim Sadpara the younger brother of Nisar Hussain Sadpara who disappeared along with Gerfried Goeshl and Cedric Hahlen on March 09, 2012 while climbing G 1) with full climbing equipment to reach Rupal valley as soon as possible and search for Joel on Rupal wall by climbing up to 7000 meters.”

“(The high altitude porters have reached Tarshing this evening (Feb 16th) and will start going up in the early morning of the 17th.)”

Earlier update / developments:

“The last blog post from Joel stated that he would climb for 3 days (Feb 6: Moving up. The central pillar and the wall are too dry. I’m going to try the S-E pillar. I’ve got 3 days. Bye, take care and thanks for following), in an earlier message he had also mentioned about staying up for 1 week.”

“He had experienced problems with his satellite phone before and while picking up a spare battery in Rupal village he took extra food supplies with him. When after several days there still hadn’t been any news from Joel and in order to establish contact with him, our guide Fida has gone up in the night to try and contact Joel while making light signals by flashing with a torch as had been discussed by Joel and Fida in case he couldn’t be reached by phone.”

“Unfortunately no contact has been established either by phone or flash light and after that the rescue operation has been started. (as described above).”

Nanga Parbat altitude: 8126m.

Joel’s expedition and the new route attempt: Pure alpine style with no ropes, no O2, no fixed camps, no porters, no altitude porters, no staff. Only the mandatory Liaison Officer for security concerns. Transport approx. 150kg. 2 snowboards theat he can us as a pulka for the trek. 

Route starts with with a 11km trek to Herrligkoffer camp site, 3600m (advanced base camp). “The Rupal Face is one of the biggest alpine face on earth,” Joel says in his journal. 

The route:
“The first part of the route will be similar to the one Tomaz Humar took in 2005 but a little more S-E and more straight. It’s highly exposed to avalanches due to rockfalls from the Rupal wall laying right over a big serac. Bivi spots are very rare and it’s dangerous up to 6200m. What comes next is steep, that’s all you need to know. Hopefully I will be still alive and fit enough when I reach the top of the central serac. If it’s too windy and too difficult, and if I don’t feel great at that time, I have 2 other routes possible: to the left and the House Anderson route, to the right and another new line close to the 1985 route.”

The snowboard descent: “I can’t tell you yet.” Read more here about Joel’s expedition and the new route attempt

“Forget about massive ego concerns, the first winter summit, to be the first to etc. I don’t care, I go and climb for myself because I seriously need it in my life right now.” Read more here what he says about Why winter, why Nanga Parbat.

source:k2climb.net