(Newsdesk) Since an avalanche flattened BC on the Diamir face Romanian Zsolt is climbing alone on the route. Latest word from him was from a bivouac below camp 2.
Climbers on the Mazeno ridge route have spent their first night on the mountain.
The expedition has asked local outfitters for help to rebuild base camp, destroyed over a 300 meter wide area.
Meanwhile Zsolt went up to acclimate. Minerva received a call from him just below camp 2 at around 5900 meters. Zsolt said the climb had been very difficult due to deep snow and he had to bivouac under a survival blanket at 4 am. It was snowing all night and the climber planned to descend when the snow stopped. Americans Kathrin and Bob are in Base Camp.
“I think of the climb as having four stages, 1) to get up onto the Mazeno ridge, 2) to get along the Mazeno ridge to the col, 3) to get from the col to the summit, 4) to get off the mountain again.”
Cathy is making detailed reports from the climb including lots of live pics (check feeds). The expedition generator is bust though so the team is at mercy of the sun.
The first stage of the climb is not turning out to be a terribly easy one, Cathy reports, “getting up onto the ridge is not a simple snow plod.”
Back at basecamp after spending their first night on the mountain (at camp 1/5650m), Cathy wrote the Sherpas reached around 6200 metres. Also this team reports snow fall and hard going in deep unconsolidated snow. “With nowhere suitable to place tents, C2 is likely to be at around 6400 metres,” Cathy wrote.
“We need clear weather to make correct navigational decisions and we need colder temperatures and possibly some wind to pack down the snow.”
Romanian Zsolt Torok (K2 attempt in 2010) is climbing Diamir face with Americans Kathy Koslicki and Bob Semborski. The three are currently the only expedition on the face, building route to camp 2 (6100m) in masses of snow.
Zsolt had been to 6000 meters over night in bad weather when last Thursday a huge avalanche buried a big part of BC and Zsolt’s tent in C1.
Over on the Mazeno Ridge Cathy reports that a number of acclimatization and caching trips will be needed over the next week.