(Newsdesk) Word just in that Brazilian top mountaineerWaldemar Niclevicz is joining Spanish Carlos Soria and American Don Bowie on the Annapurna summit push.
“Although it has snowed a lot in recent days, there is an expectation of better days this week,” writes Waldemar in his email to ExWeb, “with some possibility of attack to the summit on Thursday or Friday, when the winds should decrease your speed from 70 to 80to 30 or 40 km/h.”
The weather forecast will need be confirmed, the mountaineer cautioned, and the question is also how much snow has accumulated high up. Waldemar is going to camp 1 (5.100m) today with Sherpa Pasang. Carlos Soria, Tente and five Sherpas will go up tomorrow all meeting up in camp 2 (5.700m). All looking good, the joint push will proceed to Camp 3 (6.600m) and/or 4 (around 7000 meters).
The forecast reportedly shows deteriorating conditions soon after so the climbers are a bit nervous, but hopeful. “I made my prayer, and the strong smell of incense reminds me of the Divine presence,” ends Niclevicz his note. “Follow along with faith!”
(This Annapurna expedition is supported by XP Investments).
The feared Annapurna
Sixty+ years after becoming the first 8000er ever summited (June 3, 1950, by French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal), Annapurna is notorious for its danger.
“Not one of my favorite mountains, I must confess. It’s dangerous due to avalanche risk on the North Face…” said Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, before losing his life there. “Annapurna is on my mind all the time. It’s hard and dangerous,” said Silvio Mondinelli whose friend was hit by falling snow and perished in his arms.
Simone Moro knows it too, he was right behind Boukreev who died on Anna in an avalanche although being there in supposedly more stable winter snow conditions. “Annapurna has the most dangerous standard route of all 8000ers,” said Reinhold Messner.
The peak has killed mountaineers for 8 years straight, last Mr Park and his buddies and in terms of summits vs fatalities, while the risk level has dropped since 1985 from an almost suicidal 91% to about 10% in the past decade, the mountain remains feared mostly for its avalanches.
US Don Bowie has been fighting a a lonely battle on Annapurna (Steck is coming for the Everest part) thus far but now action is building on the peak. Don is leaving on his summit push today.
Spanish record senior mountaineer Carlos Soria, 73 is headed for a summit push tomorrow. Much of the route has been prepared by Sherpas: infamous for its avalanches, exposure is the big risk on this ascent. Carlos Soria will be climbing with Tente Lagunilla and other members the expedition. After Anna, the senior climber plans to attempt Dhaulagiri and Kanchenjunga (Soria plans all 14 before he turns 75)