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Written by Administrator Gerfried Blog

After we had because of strong wind gusts fought for days to our base camp, we took advantage of a brief chance to rise again. We knew that we would be rising at a very streaky weather, but had to Winter. There are only a very few days where you can work or climb over 6500m.

So we broke into the consciousness to the base camp, take this short calm weather may be even for a summit attempt. A motivating thought!

The whole team, Cedric, Nisar, Darek, Tamara, Alex, Carlos and I went on 26 February the way we become so familiar to camp 1 (6200m) on. Since this camp now had to accommodate seven people for the first time, a third platform was unhooked from the ice. In the late afternoon last three tents like eagles’ nests were on the exposed ridge

After a cold night and I started Cedric heavily loaded first. Again and again prevented a strong wind and fine snow avalanches, the spin drift, our progress. After painstaking work on track and ice Firnflanken we reached 6700 meters in the afternoon, our last depot, leave for 14 days. Quick, we set forth to us. Cedric dug repeatedly breaking in and I backed up over the steep edge of the sugar snow, I now almost froze to death on the stand I did my very, but without support it was to film in these circumstances and very difficult to photograph. As my toes were numb already, I used my first boot heater. The grotesque at the end of the day was the fact that I won three blisters on his toes!

Finally, shortly before 16:00 Cedric rose to clock out on the ridge at 6800 meters. For us, a vast alpine historic moment, which is technically extremely challenging and steep headwall, 1600 meters high, is the first time ever been climbed by men!

I quickly followed Cedric at the fixed ropes to now finally, after two expeditions in the winter, look at this wall, over the ridge may be. Unfortunately, the sight was a bit disappointing as we were in a soup fog, no clear view of the summit. Even the way on to easier terrain was hoped unsatisfactory. Cedric tried his best, but the overhanging ridge was not covered by insurance with our material, the snow like sugar. Firnschwerter or ice screws would not hold in a fall.Light we can cheat a lot about the two of us trouble, but what would be the following colleagues? In just one hour would break the night. Could we ever reach 7,000 yards for a summit bivouac? Would we see in this fog, and wind gusts at all at this summit and the camp again? If we had our plan of crossing the mountain at all a realistic chance?

Soon it became clear that we had to choose this day to repentance. A very painful, but correct decision. Quick, we set forth a wind-resistant materials and fixed deposit at the ridge for another attempt. Meanwhile, we also reached Nisar and Alex. Darek, Tamara and Carlos was previously vice versa. Shortly after 18:00 clock, at the onset of darkness, we abseiled from us. Completely cooled down, we wanted to stay the same directly to the base camp. In one camp we got by Darek and Tamara, who spent one more night for further acclimatization on the mountain, a cup of tea served. After four hours we arrived at 22.00 clock completely drained the secure base camp where we were treated to culinary delights late into the night.

I sit here with mixed feelings here in BC. I am disappointed that we could not ascend further, that I can not even go back now to my family, my girls. But on the other hand, I’m glad that everyone is safely back at base camp, the wall after 38 days and 8 ascents (alone this winter) finally climb through that route to the summit is open, that I with Cedric and Nisar I have two congenial, very social and extremely strong partner at my side, that the chance of our lives on a large project to complete.

Here we are now focusing all her for the next storm front, which again on 4 and 5 March will take over our camp. But who knows, maybe does already in connection to a weather window!Maybe we are the mountains and the weather finally have a real chance for a summit ascent!Our motivation remains unbroken!

With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
Gerfried Göschl
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001: Tamara at the base of the wall in a brief hour of sunshine 002: Cedric and Alex at 6100m 003: Gerfried on a cold night in camp 1 (6200m) 004: Darek and Nisar leave in the morning bearing 1 005: Cedric on the fixed rope 6600m 006: Cedric briefly in front of the ridge at 6750m 007: Nisar, under it Alex, at exit 008: Cedric the above exchange ended the ridge at 6800m 009: The opening route to the ridge, finally climbed through! 010: Gerfried when filling up the energy stores in BC, with natural Powerbar: – )








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