Yesterday, 17, left the base camp at 6 am, to the field from 1 to 6200 m with the intention of scaling, since the next 5 days are of very bad weather. Even winds of over 100 km / h 5000 m, therefore, a hurricane is approaching. The truth is that when we left the base, was not animated at all, and after crossing the glacier, with very low tenperaturas I had no choice but to grit their teeth.
After reaching the altitude of 5500 mt, again giving the coconut. But why should I go if you’re all done? I was about to get off several times. The truth is that the weather was not bad at all, which itself was the intense biting cold. I decided to continue and the 6000 meters again, my head told me not to. But back to my teeth and tried to take joy or encouragement to continue. If I’m honest I do not know where I got it, seeing the big picture …….
For days we had to wait because of the strong winds at the base camp. From next Monday, but it will get significantly worse. Charly Gabl tells us ahead in 7000 to 140 meters Maximum Gust km / h. So we must expect even here at base camp with up to 100km / h.
Therefore, we used yesterday, Friday, a chance for our mini camp 1 (6200m) in time break down and fix. Tamara and Darek scrambled on Thursday to sleep at camp 1 streaky weather to get there. Cedric and I wanted to test our Akklimatisationsstand and had planned to ascend as quickly as possible. Shortly after six clock we started yesterday morning followed by Nisar and Alex. Despite the extreme cold of -30 ° Cedric and I were very fast pace of our journey.Equally, we went on. Dot clock 11:00, after less than five hours climbing time, greeted us in camp 1 Darek and Tamara visibly surprised with hot tea. Secretly I had hoped, and Cedric, the last 100 meters to the ridge to insure at 6800m with ropes. Despite good shape, unfortunately, another climb because of the strong wind had no meaning. So we passed the time by Nisar and Alex reached the camp with a few shots and tests with the GoPro camera.
Then we took down the tent and fixed all the materials so that we can because of the rising storm, do not suffer losses. Satisfied with the result the whole team rose to the base camp.Today and tomorrow we will be here together with the Polish group led by Artur Hajzer with which we see ourselves and our excellent base camp to share, set up for the storm that protect the tents in addition.
How are you otherwise?
Physically, I feel strong and ready for our big goal for many years for my project. Our kitchen team will spoil us almost Pakistan, and this effort is unlikely, despite the wintry conditions.
On the other hand: the last time I was on 12 January showered, it is constantly cold, my toes sometimes feel like deaf foreign body, in February we have virtually seen no sun.
Everyone can probably sympathize as one in such a situation is!
Basically, we are ready for a summit ascent, the steepest parts of the route are almost all covered with ropes, enough material is on the mountain, the team is working very well work.The height of the storms that we hear constantly gurgle over our heads, oppress, but the mood and motivation. Now the tedious and frustrating game of winter begins in the Karakorum, we must wait and hope for a chance at all. We still have more than one month, but already here who want to “cook” in the cold and give up their loved ones at home? And I must confess, I sometimes curse myself that I will do that of my family. I miss my two little, adorable daughters and my patient, but now also been very stressed woman. Each phone conversation with my older daughter Hannah, who keeps asking when I’m FINALLY back home is like a punch in the stomach. It’s beautiful her voice heard, but depressing to fulfill their wishes can not do. These are inevitably the dark side of my life. Is it possible to adventure and the desire for a “normal” family life ever be reconciled?
The bad news for last: As it stands now is not a potential climb to the summit can take place before the beginning of March!
With best wishes from the base camp of Hidden Peak
001: Cedric in camp 1 with the GoPro camera on helmet 002: Gerfried with facial protection against the cold 003: Darek, our cameraman, and packed together material at camp 1, storm-ready 004: Isac, one of our tried chefs 005: Gerfried with a warm footbath and after a fresh shave 006: The frostbitten toes of a wearer of the Pakistani Polish group
We have established camp III and we are ready to attack the summit. From 7 days but sit in the base and we know that the next 7 days will not share weather allowing mountain. At 7000 m above sea level, the wind blows with a force of 100 km / h Most likely will be so until the end of February. We must be patient – which is not easy – and wait at the base for three weeks. If something starts to change in the forecasts we know.