09.02 in the afternoon, a team consisting of Adam Bielecki, Janusz Golab, Ali Sadpara established camp III at an altitude of 7040 m above sea level, leading to the camp of defeated Japanese couloir without problems. After the break the tent prepared for camping conditions according to the weather forecast is winds of 45 km / h and temperatures of minus 35 ° C, virtually no cloud cover. Weather for the next day was to be similar, the wind was a little step up (to 60 km / h). Unfortunately, the reality was different from the forecasts. During the night a strong wind sprang up about the strength of about 80 km / HIW gusting to 100 km / h Clouded over and there was a blizzard. Night at the third camp was for Adam, Janusz and Ali very difficult. The first windward shore of Adam, he felt like the wind with gusts wants to pick up along with a foam mattress. There was no doubt that in the morning as soon as the team must come down. Securing the tent before going down was a challenge. Boys przygnietli tent with stones and started downhill in very difficult conditions.
Lower in Camp II waiting for a team of three – Arthur Hajzer and Shaheen Baig. They also spent a rough night on the pass, where the wind seriously threatened the kidnapping of the tent. At the pass in the morning and during the day the wind surged in strength. Arthur was apprehensive about going down colleagues to “two” as a team and a further descent towards the base. Hajzer contact database Bielecka Agnes asked her to immediately contact us by phone with Karl Gable (supporting the expedition, weather forecasts). The problem was that Karl lives in Austria, which at that time was four hours in the morning. Arthur wanted to revise the intervention Karl weather forecasts and information, what to expect in the next few hours, and whether to enhancing the wind is not an unexpected disaster.
In the meantime, descending from the “troika” as the last Adam Bielecki leader raised pressure (base only had radio contact with the “two”, did not hear anything, “three”), communicating by radio that he had lost feeling in all extremities and has trouble going down.
Meanwhile, at the base, after consulting the weather forecast charts Meteo Test Switzerland council decided that it makes no sense to wake Karla Gable in Austria, the weather breaks, the last day of the descent, will be getting worse, and so to 15 February at least. This information is provided to camp II with an emphasis on it as soon as possible to descend. (The new forecast from Gabla received approximately 13:00 local time, confirmed that February 10th the wind was 80km / h at 7000 m above sea level, and not previously announced 60 km / h).
After about two hours, tense crisis situation subsided. The entire three-person team reported wyziębiony and tired of the “talon” around 10:00. There they waited for warm drinks and food. After over an hour of rest, around 11:30, all five went down. In the camp, and the wind was weaker. Spent the night here.The next day, that is, 11 February, in the afternoon, the team reached the base. The road from the base ones took place in the average windy conditions and moderate blizzard.
Adam after a difficult descent to Two
The base was found in Ali Sadpary, frostbite toes at the feet of the second degree. Janusz Golab-degree frostbite is to the left cheek. Adam feels harmless przemrożenie feet, has a slightly burnt toe (the effect of warming up the legs of the stove) and przemrożony finger of right hand.
Good weather forecast for the days 07-10.02 proven in 90%. On the last day of clouds and wind parameters were significantly higher than that forecast. This was the source of three hours very nervous situation and the fight against racial winter in Karakorum. At present, we know what to expect when something goes contrary to the plan. Meanwhile, we are pleased that both the road and we are ready to attack the summit. We were already in the top four times, we have established three camps and the process of acclimatization, we consider it finished.
Team morale is good, we are optimistic, keep your fingers crossed and think of us warmly.
Agna, Adam, Arthur, Janusz
Original source :http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl