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As I said yesterday Alex and Carlos came to the edge with intent to finish what was left open. Alex tells us was impossible, because of the intense cold they suffered in the attempt. They managed to open the wall up to 6.700m, where they were forced to leave and go down to Base Camp.

This tells us Alex:

a day before yesterday, at about half past 9 am, Carlos and I went to camp 1. The rest of the team had spent the night in camp 1 to 6200mt, very cold, having surpassed the 35 below zero. What awaits us!
In an hour and a half, as usual, we planted at the base of the wall, and on reaching the bergschrund we find that the crampons of Charles were buried by an avalanche. That task! But after about 40 minutes to find them, thank goodness …

We started climbing the fixed ropes first, and at about 5 pm we arrived at camp 1. We met first with Darek and Tamara, and in 1 with Nissar, Gerfield and Cedric, who did a good job setting up the 6650 m, near the edge. Now it’s up to us.

Inside the store does not seem to do very cold but according to the hours go by, the cold seems to increase and we are stiff the toes, and gradually also the legs. What a feeling harder in the morning out of the bag! What torture, epigastric cartridges have slept with us, otherwise it would freeze well, like almost everything. We have not looked temperature but almost certainly touching the 40 below zero, we left the store at 9 and a half in the morning, loaded with 2 stores and with intent to reach the top of the ridge.

It’s freezing, we frozen feet. The hours go by and not heated, but worse the conditions are growing worse and the wind starts blowing and the cold is increasing. Fuck what despair, we are very close to the edge, we want to go, but …..

We reached the highest point reached our colleagues the day before. I have loaded up and the first long it’s up to Carlos, a very difficult climbing difficult. It takes about an hour and I can not anymore, I feel the fingers. Carlos qiuere lowered. Normal, I, we are very close to the edge, but if we are going to freeze, sure. To the next.

Now it’s getting out of here, but how? If I can not move your fingers! Have to suffer, to rappelling descender running to take the heat with the friction of the rope. At times it seems to work, but it is not, which sucks. Not long for c1.

Once at Camp 1 like crazy trying to keep warm. Not long to go, it’s 5 pm and still we have to go down to the base. In an hour rapelamos entire wall, and as usual at 6 dark. Once again at night to base camp. Once passed the glacier took off our crampons, with a lot barely cold, take off our crampons and what a relief! We feet hurt, but once we started walking the pain starts. After an hour and a half, we finally reached the base. What joy we descojonados, very very tired. We’ve given everything. We changed clothes as soon as possible to the kitchen (the hottest site of c.base).Carlos asks you enter warm water to get the feet. Her fingers are stiff, but nothing serious. I have them but I have fear just looking at them, I’m going to dry socks and wait until tomorrow. Our hands and sore feet, sore from the intense cold of the Karakorum. Today has given us a lesson, here the driver is the Karakorum, cuidadín kids.


And now some pictures:

alex c1 by the cold early morning banter going

alex on c1 -36

gerfield, setrik, Nisar field1

field1 setrik after hard work

carlos c1

 

Alex 6.400mAlex 6.400m

carlos c1.cenado tuna isabel

alex returned c1 6200mt

alex and carlos to 6300mtnada more out of c1Alex and Carlos to 6.300m

 

Carlos 6250mCarlos 6250m

alex and carlos near the cb

 

carlos on the base with hot water