A week ago we started to approach the GI base camp in the heart of Karakorum. The sense of entering into a forbidden world in winter is something that accompanies you all the time. No people anywhere. There is no smooth transition in this valley of more than one hundred miles long, cold suddenly attacks you. The porters as always tanned and strong also harbor. The cold is not something you can control, there is a button where you can turn for a moment the low temperatures in a position to do something more comfortable.
Normally in a winter climbing are often carried a few things in my pockets to keep from freezing. During the approach march I have been filling their pockets with so many things that I fail to blow my nose, as if he had gained a few kilos, I wanted to lose all those steaks and pink panther ate before I came.
At night, the sleeping bag becomes a rigid box with thousands of things inside to the point of being unable to move well and rest it right.
Passing next to the Trango Towers in winter conditions is daunting. I remember the great climbs Medinabeitia made there by the brothers Galician, Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Gullich or recently Pou brothers or Huber.
We move even further back, in the circus of some of the largest mountains. In the midst of the valley, we are especially concerned that we do not grab a storm in full alignment. Luckily it has not. We survived the first.
The base camp welcomes us with thirty below zero on the first night. This is to get an idea of what to expect. Everything is hard and uncomfortable. To the point, explain how the matter of going to the bathroom, always worrying question. In my case I’ve been trekking pants thick, then inside and then a bib shorts. When the time comes I have to top it clear that my hands are warm and inner gloves start with the first rack, then the second, I look for somethingbehind the underwear and simply take it out outside. This part is always hot, seems to counteract the cold outside for a while. When he returns home he noted coolness throughout the body leaving one probably useless for any art loving. Here you become primitive, everything becomes simple, eat something hot, be warm and not dwell on what we have.
We put the pulse oximeter and Alex da beats 70 and 90 of oxygen saturation in the body, I, however, I 90 beats and 85 of saturation, it is clear here who the machaca. Poles are also here to try a normal route, the corridor of the Japanese. They also see warm, cold knows no nationalities. I miss the real small things like not being forced to breathe with a scarf on her face all the time.
The route appears to be in drier than last year according to Alex. Appears at times a wall of two thousand meters will lead to a higher plateau about seven thousand. Everything here is great. I wish I could show that this is not a journey of colleagues, but it is an adventure where there are things to be transmitted. I think the most at stake climbers have a moral duty to report that there is a window up there ready to open our eyes to best of optimism.That quality that makes the man to do all your best dreams.
Note” All images are Carlos Suarez’s Property .original post