Alex iixkon returns to plunge into one of the harshest winters on the planet, accompanied by Carlos Suarez, Gerfried Göschl,Nisar Hussain, Darek Zaluski and Cederic Hahl. Yesterday went through one of our stores to pick up part of their team and take this opportunity to interview before leaving for the
Gasherbrum I, it is the second attempt of Alex along Gerfried , it would be the first ever summit of GI in winter ,It is historical expedition as the team are going to draw a new line on the mountain.
Yesterday we received a visit from Alex Txikon in our shopO’Donnell Street in Madrid. He came to pick his team of feathers,monkey, booties, mittens, and tell us your feelings before the game.
Marc de Bruyn, representative in Spain of the Rab brand, handed over the material. And once recovered from the flushing of having to prove, to avoid problems later, such a suit for temperaturesdown to -50 º C in the warm atmosphere of a closed Madrid, we proceeded to chat with him about his dreams, about the expectations you have for these so intense and exciting that you have to live.
Txikon lex returns to plunge into one of the harshest winters on the planet, accompanied by Carlos Suarez, Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain, Darek Zaluski and Cederic Hahl. Yesterday went through one of our stores to pick up part of their team and take this opportunity to interview before leaving for the Gasherbrum I, in another attempt to get the 1 st winter atop this mountain history Extend
Alex Txikon in Barrabes
Alex trying on the feathers with Marc de Bruyn, Rab
Yesterday we received a visit from Alex Txikon in our shop O’Donnell Street in Madrid. He came to pick his team of feathers, monkey, booties, mittens, and tell us your feelings before the game.
Marc de Bruyn, representative in Spain of the Rab brand, handed over the material. And once recovered from the flushing of having to prove, to avoid problems later, such a suit for temperatures down to -50 º C in the warm atmosphere of a closed Madrid, we proceeded to chat with him about his dreams, about the expectations you have for these so intense and exciting that you have to live.
Alex conveys a childlike enthusiasm for what he does not leave anyone indifferent. In the antithesis of the mountaineer whose projects have more to do with marketing and sponsorship with a love for the mountains. His words, gestures and glances spread the passion for what he does. Impossible to remain indifferent to it.
Thank you very much for your time and your visit, Alex. Just wish you good luck and wish you enjoy much of that winter, one of the toughest in the world, and how much you have caught.
What is the Karakorum winter makes you come back? Is it to get the 1 st winter peak of Gasherbrum I or is there more?
The first year can you go for the challenge. But now, once we’ve ever been … we will not because they are not made. We are going because there is something that we liked and we reached deep inside … I can not explain what it is. I can try putting you one example, a sense describiéndote …
A year ago we were in the second bivouac at the end of issue, when we climbed in a last attempt to row the Japanese, 7.500m. I was suddenly flooded an absolute vacuum and wondered, but we are on another planet or where are we? With -50 ° C, with wind, tried to fight with the rods, the 3 solos throughout the Himalayas and the Karakoram, the light was indescribable, that loneliness … buff … I felt an absolute vacuum …
But suddenly … looked to one side to another, saw Gerfried, Louis, and the gap disappeared. See me there with those two companions at that time absolute vacuum in the winter are like the mother to a baby of 4 months is amazing. I can not explain.You can show images, say here is, but it’s hard to feel from the outside, because it is so different from what we had lived in the mountains, which usually lived … can not be explained. These are feelings and emotions that catch you and make you come back.
Is it so different from the mountain over the summer?
Well, an eight-thousand of the Karakoram in winter is to summer what a white to black, definitely …
What feeling did you have to go back a little later in summer, in season?
The truth is that, after that, go in the summer was a real easy ride.To tell you the truth, what I took was to get to drive there, you know I went from house to Askole with a van and doing exhibitions in Europe and Asia cut logs. It was a beautiful trip, but really hard, harder almost to be in summer at camp 2, spend good weather cold but you are very good. In winter that no one can imagine in the summer on the go trekking in short sleeves, with sunshine during the approach … now we’ll be at -25 ° C. In summer the trekking is full of people, now, every site you get is amazing, you are almost the first to have seen there this season. I still remember the faces of soldiers who are close to the base camp when they saw us, did not believe it.
And mountaineering has absolutely nothing to do, what we will talk.
As said earlier, in a situation so extreme and so lonely, the choice of partners is essential.
Yes, and this year I am very excited about the prospect of sharing this with Carlos Suarez … and just what we are enjoying now as I ask, I tell him … for he is the first time. We’re excited, I do more than give hugs every time I see him …
Last year could you see how difficult it is to reach the top of an eight thousand of the Karakoram in winter. But what you learned that you can serve this year to succeed?
I have to say that I do not plan that. You should go moment to moment. Is that when we say that in winter it’s all so different in the summer not just talking about cold and mountain conditions and loneliness. It is everything. In summer, people go and the country is more or less ready, but now, since the plane ride is an adventure. Imagine what the political situation there. Now there is no protection for the visitor. But is that by failing to tourists, it can happen that the fire truck arrives Skardu Airport is being used for other things and can even fly. This happened last year two days after we arrive, and can last a long time. I load everything before you start, because now you are probably Higway Karakoram closed so you can not get close or to begin the approach. In a country as unstable off-season … one can not ask what would you ask me, because maybe even get to the mountain.
And if you manage to get there?
Well, back to the same, not so easy. Suppose we Askole, ok.Carlos and I have to do the approach walk, the carriers, there is the problem with the helicopter. They charge 5 hours flying but only two, and you can not protest, is a military helicopter, you know … we can not pay the big bucks, so many hours are $ 40,000. Imagine that in winter snow blocks the approach walk, which is long, and not to base camp … we are so much better to go every day … if I go to an eight-thousand in the summer, no I do not plan reach, it is clear that unless you do catastrophe. Now even that is an uncertainty.
But also, an experience so unique, is to enjoy it day by day, moment by moment. In summer, the approximation, the journey, are trite. Now they are a unique gift. It makes me special pleasure to go with Carlos, who does not know, teach, enjoy together a very complicated issue. In winter the journey and approach are like many years ago, are as risky as the climb itself.
Also, I have to say that we may have some surprises. Carlos is an expert in BASE jumping, and I’ve done my jumps this year. You might try something in the approximation, or earlier. But we’ll see … as I say, every day and enjoy!
What if you finally arrive at base camp?
Not exactly a learning year, but it is true that this year we are 6.We can make two teams and work shifts. Last year was a superhuman effort. In Alpine, for new route, art, fighting for days to reach 7.100m … if two teams take turns at the wall, you may be able to reach. We were 150m from the end of the technical side, the set which then leads to top. In principle, if we had completed 150m could have done such an attack on top, but at this time, who knows? Just think you’ve done the hard and get up there and you find that in the “easy” snow reaches your neck … it’s all a mystery.
But it is true that we already know the route, meetings … every little bit helps, of course.
Why did you choose a new route, as well as technical?
In part because the route of the summer, the normal, is considerably longer. But also because this corridor is less obvious. We are not eyeing first, but everything falls in summer. In winter and can be soldered. If the barrier of seracs which is on the right broke from time to time, but initially is solid. It’s a beautiful line, which may give us more security and was shorter than normal. In addition, the 3 were quite technical, and motivated us very much.
You speak of the two groups … instead of a compact 3, going 6 Do we talk about your teammates?
Gerfried Göschl is a little expedition leader. It’s good at it, like.Carlos Suarez is a great climber and person. But on Carlos … is truly mini, with a very high level in everything he does, whether climbing, rock climbing, BASE jumping, and a spirit of exploration and search hard to find. Cederic Hahnloser … and I met him when we were both young, in 2004. She has my same years, 30, has already ascended the K2 and Kanchan, is Swiss guide, and is a climber of the new batch, very technical and fast, very good at ice climbing. Darek Zaluski … I’ve met him twice, but what else was going to say that the K2 peak in the slope Gerlinde China this season. It was in the winter Shisha with Simone Moro.
And I’d like to make clear that the Pakistani Nisar Hussain comes as a mountaineer and a full member of the expedition. That’s enough to go there and they carry, come to your land, your home, its mountains, are great, and for something so significant and can go down in history of mountaineering, taking place in Pakistan, I think it is necessary for a climber from there, as well as good Nisar, is present.
You are a really strong team Do you already thought and organize yourselves?
Here are two things that qualify. Mountaineering are a team, strong, experienced people, ready, lover of these situations and these challenges, and personally, which for me is so important, we can fit very well. We will work all together and you’ll see how things are arranged, depending on the circumstances and how we each.
But the need to differentiate in terms of shooting: first, Carlos and I are going to make a movie, and Gerfried OtherEarth make another with the help of Darek and Hahnloser. This is due to sponsorship and economic issues, but it does not matter: in no case will interfere with the work in the mountains, because rather a matter of assembly, and has nothing to do with the activity itself, I mention as an anecdote.
Good luck Alex. Will you share with us all even if some of your emotions on this trip?
Of course! With pleasure. I will be in constant contact with you, provided the technique and circumstances permit!