According to Gerfried Göschl’s home team, Austrian climbers Otto Harrer, Anton Rumpl, Hubert Leitner and Dutch Elio Schijlen summited GII yesterday. They are expected back in BC today.
Details are expected though. Giuseppe Pompillli had previously reported that summit attempts on both GI and GII Thursday had failed due to strong wind and deep snow. Pompilli tried to top-out GI together with Adrian, Mario Vielmo and Silvano Forgiarini. As for GII climbers, he stated they would launch a second summit bid on July 23rd.
“It couldn’t be,” reported Catalan Xavis from C3. “We turned back at 7,800 meters.” Xavi Aymar and Xavi Arias, who launched the summit push together with Argentineans Heber and Lito, and a 10-men German group, reported on too slow progress during the summit push, due to loads of fresh snow. “It was 10 am when we decided to turn around . it had taken us 13 hours to climb 800 meters.” The Catalans still hope for a second summit chance as soon as the weather improves.
Meanwhile, an Iranian team from Arash region is back on Broad Peak, hoping to finish a new route on the peak’s south west side, which they already attempted back in 2009. They reached BC on Tuesday (July 12) and have already set C1.
K2 – north
Maxut Zhumayev confirmed to Tengrinews.kz that the international team had managed to set up a second camp at 6,400m.
Spanish Alberto Zerain and Argentinean Leonardo “Cuni” Provervio were forced down by difficult conditions on a partial trip to Mazeno Peak. The climbers hoped to reach that summit as a training climb before attempting the entire mazeno ridge to Nanga Parbat’s main summit. After 8 hours climbing on mixed terrain and fragile ice,the two men retreated from 6,100m.
Zerain’s mate Txingu tried to reach the peak from a different route, but was neither successful.
The team is now back in BC, studying their next moves on the mountain.