The first is the oral statement by Gerfried it already at 16.15 clock on radio Steiermark!
Read the report:
On Sunday we left full of motivation already clock at 5:00, heavily laden with our equipment and food for four days. We knew that only a violent power could enable a summit. After several hours and several columns falls we could pass through the dangerous Gasherbrum glacier to 5900m. After a short lunch break we took the further way towards Gasherbrum La beneath our feet. Finally, to almost 6200m, under the Gasherbrum La, we found a small, flat square and set up our tent at 16:00 clock.
Very early on we started on Monday to prepare for the further advancement. First we had to find the way on to Gasherbrum La, a dangerous divide permeated and time-consuming task.At last we reached for a short time easy terrain. In the afternoon we took the Japanese Couloir addressed. Gradually becoming steeper, we secured from 6600m from some of rock and ice passages. Shortly after 17:00 clock we rose to over 7000m, and finally a flat course on which a tent can be established. The summit was within reach of us. Contrary to the weather forecast us a strong northeast wind whistled in my ears. Despite all the efforts we have only the inner tent, set up but not the important flysheet. Thus, less protected against the forces of nature, we had to prepare ourselves for a very cold night when we would feel the wind in the tent. This was our optimism should not harm little, the wind was so clearly is forecast overnight and wane we can rise to very cold, on the other hand, the ideal for a desired peak.
From 2:00 clock, after a sleepless, freezing night we prepared ourselves for the departure.Unfortunately I could not for the intensity of the wind, with about 80km / h, it was blowing around our tent, which would mean at the top well over 100km / h. Time and again we delayed our start in this storm would be a rise of pure madness, hara-kiri. Finally at 09:00 we had to clock the futility of our actions see, no chance. The next day was predicted bad weather. Therefore, the inevitable decision to descend back to life, but bitter disappointment.Almost 50 days we had fought for a winter ascent, given everything, endured extreme cold and bad weather, why, just before the finish had to accept such a pitch, and we submit ourselves to the elements. Late at night we reached the base camp drawn.
A short statement to our friend Dr. Karl Gable and his weather forecast: We are grateful for his efforts Charly and accurate forecasts. He is recognized worldwide as the weather specialist for the highest mountains in the world. Unfortunately, sometimes, despite our best knowledge, training, experience and technology, certain cells and wind weather phenomena are not predictable. He is not to blame for our failure, the nature to simply stronger than humans and can not always look in the sewing box!
And that’s a good thing.
ith full motivation we started last Sunday at 5am, loaded with our gear and food for four days. Only a nearly inhuman performance would give us a chance for a possible success.After many hours of walk and if in some hidden crevasse we reached 5900m on the Gasherbrum glacier to make a small brake. Soon we started again to approach the Gasherbrum La (col between Pakistan and China). Some hours later, below the Gasherbrum La at approximately 6200m, we stopped at a save place for the first night at 4pm.
On Monday we started very early to prepare us, we have to search for complicating the way through many crevasses and seracs till the less dangerous area of Gasherbrum La. After noon we reached the Japanese couloir. In the steepest parts of the rocky and icy corridor, beginning at 6600m, we belayed ourselves. Finally we stepped out of it at around 7000 after 5pm and found a flat place for our tent. The summit looked so near, nearly to touch. Against the weather forecast there was strong wind from north-east. Therefore we fixed the tent with ropes, but it was impossible to put the roof (cover) on. Therefore we had to expect a colder night, less protected against natural power. Still we were optimistic, our weather forecast said that the wind will go down and we would have good climbing conditions on our route till the very summit.
Beginning 2am we prepared to start, after a very cold sleepless night. Unexpected there was no break in the wind, it blew with 80km / h, Which meant at the summit with much more than 100km / h. We waited till 9am to recognize that there is no chance to attempt would be hara-kiri. Finally at 9am we have to face that the decision could be unhappy but only to go down, back to live. On the next days there should be very bad weather too. Nearly 50 days we fought for the first winter ascent of Hidden Peak, now we had real bad luck. Late at night we reached base camp very sad.
One statement about our friend Dr. Karl Gable: We are very very thankful to Charles for his great effort and precise weather forecast. Worldwide he is well known as the best weather expert for high altitude mountains. Even the best knowledge, education, experience and technic can not foresee some local weather phenomena in cells, especially in the Karakoram mountains. He is not responsible that finally we did not summit. We have to accept that the nature is still hiding some personal thing which are too big for our mind
And yes, it’s good like it is.
001: Gerfried and Alex at 5900m, behind Gasherbrum La (col) and G1
002: Louis and Alex seeking a way through the glacier at 6300m below Gasherbrum La (col)
003: Louis and “The Chicken Txikon” climbing in the steep and cold Japanese couloir at 6650m
004: No chance, Alex very sad in our second bivouac at 7050m after waiting from 9am till 2am for a start to the top. The strong wind never stop.
005: Because of strong wind from north-east at our second camp, we fix the tent with ropes.The roof was impossible to put on. In the morning the wind came from west, stronger.
006: Alex and Gerfried at the top of the Japanese couloir at 7000m going down
007: Alex and Louis below Gasherbrum La, very exhausted
008: Alex and Gerfried in late afternoon, it’s a long march from 7000 to BC with heavy rucksacks