March 15, 2011 at 2 p.m.
The entire assault group rests and gathers its strength for attack in camp III. Robert and Krzysztof still feel the effects of the last assault – today they have been slower than usual.
Marcin Kaczkan, who didn’t take part in the last summit attempt, is a dark horse. In camp III wind blows from time to time, but it’s not alarming. Two new tents, that were brought, were put up – conditions for resting are good. On the summit the wind blows with 60 km/h.
We’ve got two weather forecasts: one says that in the morning, the wind is going to be weaker, another says that it’s strength will increase. We will learn it the hard way. So, it’s a toss-up.
Broad Peak March 15, 2011 account made at 8.00 a.m. /12.00 p.m. local time/
Summit attempt of Broad Peak by the team including Marcin Kaczkan, Krzystof Starek, Robert Szymczak and Ali Sadpara is in progress.
Situation is as follows: at 12 p.m. the climbers are in 2/3 way from camp II to camp III at 7,200 m.
Strength of wind is increasing and at 7,000 m the North-West wind blows with 50 km/h (into the left arm of the photographer). Over the summit cone (see the photo) there is a lenticular cloud which means that there is a very strong wind and moving strong air currents at 8,000 m.
It’s sunny, but the sky is covered with cirrus clouds, which means that the break in weather is coming within next 24-48 hours.
Our team has to set off from camp III towards the summit tonight. It’s 10 degrees Celsius warmer than during the last summit attempt (now at 7,000 m the temperature is -30 degrees Celsius), so perhaps they will set off around midnight on March 15 or at the latest at 2 a.m. on March 16.
Meanwhile, they hurry as much as they can and complain about the strong wind blowing downhill and straight into their faces.
Report made in the base camp by
Gerfried reached via satellite phone to his Page,After a hard track work, all three climbers planned the camp at 7000m reached. Given the currently high wind and extreme cold, three only the inner tent set up the. It had ropes attached to the wind with the motion. A very long and exhausting work at that level. Gerfried sounded tired and exhausted!
Should the wind, as predicted, turn or less to be the ABC team breaks early tonight against 3 clock (clock = 23 pak.Zeit our time) towards the summit of Hidden Peak (8080m) on.
No easy task in place, but still above 1000 meters in front of them.
Whether the weather or extend the powers to?
We will see it and your fingers crossed!
A SUMMIT ATTEMPT HAS BEGUN – without Artur Hajze14.03.2011
Arthur Hajzer Reports from base camp to home page,Weather forecasts made the expedition to accelerate their activities. Although the participants still feel in their muscles the last attack, they have to go up. The weather is great, but it’s supposed to remain this way only till Wednesday (full moon) or at the latest till Thursday. It’s Monday, March 14, 10 a.m. local time – the assault group approaches camp II at 6,300 m. This time in the composition of
attacking team, considerable tactic changes took place – Artur Hajzer stayed in the base camp.
The attacking team includes:
– Robert Szymczak
– Marcin Kaczkan
– Krzysztof Starek
– Ali Muhamad Sadpara
To camp III the team will be supported by Ali Raza. Apart from Artur Hajzer, Piotr Snopczyński stayed in the base camp. Here is what Artur Hajzer, leader of the expedition, said: – I’m older and I haven’t regenerated after the last attempt as fast as Robert. Moreover, there is a temptation not to be always on the front line. I’m tired and an opportunity appeared to give full initiative to young people. Perhaps, it will motivate them even more and muster up additional energy. I’m sure that the attack has nothing in common with the title of my book and that the summit will be conquered.
Greetings from the base camp,
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