Artur Hajzer reports:
“In camp 3 there are Krzysztof Starek, Robert Szymczak, Artur Hajzer and Ali Sadpara. Both tents set up in this camp were blown away – we sleep in what is left of the salvaged tents. Robert Fronia, Jarek Gawrysiak and Marcin Kaczkan sleep in camp 2.
Ali Raza went down to the base camp. Piotr Snopczyński is also in the base camp.”
Dramatic beginning of the summit attempt of Broad Peak March 7, 2011
The beginning of the summit attempt doesn’t look too well. Weather conditions on slopes of the mountain have changed dramatically.
At the moment in C2 there is wind blowing with 100 km/h, but it’s not the worst news. Upon reaching C2, the assault team found a tattered tent.
Situation in C2 looks as follows: Artur Hajzer, Ali Raza and Ali Sadpara try to put up a tent that they have brought; Robert and Krzysiu occupy the remains of the tent using it as a bivouac shelter. A hard night awaits them.
Weather forecasts for the following days introduce changes into the speed of wind. Although optimistic news from Piotr are quite good, Karl Gabl writes about an increase in wind speed – Tuesday 70 km/h, Wednesday from 20 km/h it is supposed to increase to 45 km/h and on Thursday – over 70 km/h.
Currently, Marcin Kaczkan who is in C1 experiences similar conditions, a tent has been seriously damaged.
We are waiting for more information from the mountain.
When it comes to our set off tomorrow – we are sitting and thinking; weather forecast for Thursday takes away our chances to attempt the summit, but the motto of our expedition is: Hope freezes last. For now, we have decided to set off as a support group to rebuild C2 and bring up a new (already the third) tent and the most necessary things.
Keep your fingers crossed, we grab the anemometer.
From the base camp,
Broad Peak March 7, 2011 – concept of the summit attempt
Radio Golwdin Austin broadcasts:
A historic moment has come.
Details of the summit attempt:
According to the received, latest weather forecasts, situation in the summit cone looks as follows:
Monday – wind 60-100 km/h, considerable cloudiness
Tuesday – wind 40 km/h, partly cloudy
Wednesday – wind 20 km/h!!! partly cloudy
Thursday – wind 40 km/h, sunny
Friday – wind in the morning ca. 70 km/h, in the subsequent parts of the day the speed of wind is supposed to increase – we have to go down!!!
On Monday at ca. 5 a.m., the first group sets off from the base camp to C2
leader Artur Hajzer
Their plan is to reach C2, next day C3 and on Wednesday to attempt the summit for the first time. According to one of the weather forecasts, temperature in the summit cone will fall to -42 degrees Celsius, according to another one to -57 degrees Celsius. Also on Monday, Marcin Kaczkan sets off alone towards C1; on Tuesday he is supposed to reach C2 and join the second group.
On Tuesday, the second group sets off to C2:
Plan of the second group includes reaching C3 on Wednesday and attempting the summit on Thursday.
The entire summit attempt will be overseen and coordinated from the base camp by Baba – Piotr Snopczyński.
Keep your fingers crossed.
Broad Peak March 6, 2011 – tomorrow we plan to attempt the summit!
We have already known from the initial and cautious announcements of Karl Gabl that during the starting week we are to expect a break in weather suitable for summit attempt. The talk was about 4-5 days. The latest updates give us two days: Tuesday and Wednesday. So, as it usually is in Karakorum what is left from a window is a window vent, but we do remember that a weather forecast is just a weather forecast and the situation may be different in the mountains. Anyway, all the signs in Heaven and Earth indicate that it’s high time to start the summit attempt!
We plan to set off in two groups:
on Monday 4 or 5 people
on Tuesday 4 or 5 people
The composition of teams is still unknown, because we are waiting for the newest weather forecast, which we expect to receive tonight, i.e. right before the set off.”