Louis and I started last Friday in bad weather already at 4:20am. Alex couldn´t join us this time because sadly he was sick with fever. After an exhausting ascent, we had to break trail and put out the fixrope out of the wind pressed snow, we reached the ridge at around 6300m in the early afternoon. Soon we could find a not ideal, but counting the circumstances, good and save place for our “very high” camp 1. We hacked more than two hours the blue ice to get a tiny platform for our tent. It´s a very small place, but we have no choice. Finally we are happy that after three weeks of hard work we have a camp 1. Exhausted but satisfied we came back to BC after 14.5 hours.
On the same day three porters reached BC with 24 chicken, heating gas and other important things we needed. Because of deep snow on the Baltoro glacier they reached us after eight days of hard and unbelievable effort. We use the possibility to say a hearty thank you to these nameless porters for their great help and assistance! Now we know that we will have a great BC live in the near future too.
Till we have bad weather here in the range of the Gasherbrums. As soon we get green (weather) light from Dr. Karl Gabl we will go up again to sleep in C1 and force the route till the end of the steep wall at around 6800m. Next time we will be joint again by Alex “The Chicken” Txikon, luckily he is completely healthy again! We will need the performance of his strong arms to widen the place of our camp 1 a little.