Broad Peak 18.02.2011 – the situation at 18.00 local time
Artur Hajzer reports: Rafał Fronia, Jarek Gawrysiak are in camp 3. Piotr Snopczyński went down from camp 2 to the base camp, where the other participants of the expedition are. Dodał marek karnecki dnia 18.02.2011
Rafał and Jarek are just passing the crack at 6,900 m, Snopek is going down from camp 2 to the base camp, and we (Szymczak, Hajzer, Starek, Ali and Raza) are eating scrambled eggs with Polish ham in the base camp.
Yesterday, the situation was rather different. The night in camp 3 (7,200 m) exhausted us physically and mentally. Several hours spent in two small 2-person assault tents, three people in each, penetrating humidity and no space, time or energy for cooking can suck out energy and motivation. It was a night when a man starts to chanta a mantra, but it was not “Om mani padme um”, but “What the f… am I doing here?”. And it was all after a difficult day of climbing from camp II, during which the wind blowing with 60 km/h did not coddle us on the icy slopes.
At 9 a.m. Ali, Raza, Artur and me went above camp III in order to reconnoitre. We gave up the wishful and misty plan of using a delusive weather window to attempt the summit. As usual, the good wind calmed down a day before instead of a day after. No energy, rest after a couple of steps. We managed to reach 7,500 m, conditions were good – frozen snow, no need to rig the ropes, the route to the summit seemed to be open. At noon we started to go down painfully to the base camp. Established camp III and the deposit of ropes at 7,400 m were left behind us. In the vicinity of camp II, we passed Rafa, Jarek and Snopek who were going to camp II. We reached the base camp at 7 p.m.