Winter expedition starts! The aim of the expedition is the first winter ascent of an eight-thousander in Karakorum – the 12th peak of the world – Broak Peak 8,047 m. The expedition is going to operate from December 2010 to March 2011 and climb via a route of the first conquerors, from the West, from Goldwin-Austen Glacier in the Baltoro region.
Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak – route.
Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team : Robert Szymczak, Rafał . Fronia, Jarosław Gawrysiak, Arkadiusz Grządziel, Marcin Kaczkan, Robert Kaźmierski, Jerzy Natkański and Krzysztof Starek.
Activities in the mountains have begun.
Simultaneously with enlargement of the base camp, activities in the mountains have begun. Apart from 4 participants, in the base camp there are two porters of the expedition: Mohammad Ali Sadpara and Raza Sadpara, and a cook. In total 7 people who have quite some work to do. They haven’t yet managed to locate and unpack bolts and pitons and put up personal tents, but one team has already left. The way to lower one at 5,600 m has been rigged; here, the team spent the night on January 13 and then returned to the base camp.
It’s better not to ask about weather forecasts – the base camp has been reached.
We haven’t started the climbing activities yet, but the old rule that in winter in Karakorum it is better not to ask about weather forecasts has already proved correct. Unfortunately, we have asked about it. This week the temperature at 5,000 m is going to fall and reach even -32 degrees Celsius. Guys reported that it was incredibly cold on the way to the base camp. We have laughed and replied that in Karakorum in winter it is cold, but we haven’t thought that at such altitude it could be so cold.
In the meantime J.Gawrysiak, P.Snopczyński, R.Fronia and R.Kaźmierski, on January 10, managed to reach the base camp. They are checking loads left here in October, begin to put up tents and organize the base camp.
The first team with ropes for rigging is going to set off towards camp I on the day after tomorrow.
Artur Hajzer – expedition leader
* Source : – http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl/