K2 2017 Season Coverage

The scene at K2 high camp is disjointed. Some climbers feel it is too dangerous, while others are going for the summit. The route is covered in deep snow and the weather window is tiny so those choosing to stay will have climb fast and efficient and have a lot of luck on their side to avoid a serious disaster.

UPDATE 2

The team of 14 (9 Sherpas, 5 westerners) are moving steadily. no word on mountain conditions or weather but the window was forecasted to be short meaning if they summit, they will most likely descend in harsh wind and snow – but this could be wrong which is what they are betting on, I assume)

The summit is 28,251”/8611m.

John Snorri Sigurjónsson ‘s GPS show him at  27, 020’/8236m at 8:16 am local time

Vanessa O’Brien’ GPS shows her at 27,112’/ 8263m at 9:30 am local time

They have been moving for over 9 hours.

Climbers Leaving, Some Pushing

There are at least 5 westerners and 9 Sherpas at Camp 4 on K2: Mingma G Sherpa, owner of Dreamers Destinations (DD) – a Nepali based guide service posted:

We’ll depart from our camp4 at 11pm local time. We are now 14 climbers ready for summit push. More news will be given tomorrow after 10am.only my team is pushing for K2 summit.

Kami Sherpa and his Singapore client are not part of this team with the client choosing not to try to summit. They are at base camp. British-American Vanessa O’Brien’ is climbing with Mingma, follow her GPS tracker

Icelander John Snorri Sigurjónsson with Tsering Sherpa have their GPS tracker going and showed them at 7834m. John is identified with Ascent Himalayas but also on the DD permit.

C4 is at 25,080’/7600m. The summit is 28,251”/8611m.

Here is my best assumption of who is on this summit push:

Sherpas:

  1. Mr. Mingma G Sherpa, climbed Everest-5, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu,Annapurna and Gasherbrum-I.
  2. Mr. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, climbed Everest- 7 times, Lhotse, Manaslu, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II and Sishapangma.
  3.  Mr. Tsering Pemba Sherpa, Climbed Everest-7 times, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
  4. Mr. Nima Tshering Sherpa, Climbed Everst-3times, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Manaslu
  5. Mr Nima Nuru Sherpa, climbed Everest-9 times, Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Sishapangma
  6. Mr. Ngatashi Sherpa, Climbed Everest, K2, Kanchenjugna, Lhotse, Makalu, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu.
  7. Mr. Ali Reza, Climbed Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum-II. (If success-He will be among Pakistani who climbed all 5x8000m in Pakistan. Till now, only 3 have achieved it)
  8. Mr. Fazal, climbed K2 and Gasherbrum-II. (If success-only Pakistani to climb K2 twice)
  9. Mr Aminlluah, climbed K2, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II. This year going to Broad Peak. (If success-He also will be among Pakistani who climbed all 5x8000m in Pakistan. Till now, only 3 have achieved it)

Clients:

  1. Vanessa O’Brien (British-American)
  2. John Snorri Sigurjónsson (Icelander)
  3.  Mr. Zhang Liang (China)
  4. Mr Liu Yong Zhong(China)
  5. Ms. Dong Hongjuan(China)

Another Day …

 Fredrik Sträng and the Polish team have returned to base camp. Fredrik is suggesting he will wait for a better window later – a big gamble that it will emerge but a smart decision not to push during this small one. His home team posted:

Fredrik just called from BC. They aborted the ascent at aprox. 7400 meters due to bad weather and dangerous conditions with little visibility, waist-deep snow and avalanches. Fredrik and his climbing partner will now wait and think about what to do depending on the next days’ weather. The Polish team is also back in BC and all climbers here are well and fit for another ascent if the weather and conditions improve. The sat-phone connection has been very poor and therefore the lack of updates

Andrzej Bargiel who wants to ski down from the summit of K2 posted 10 hours ago. I assume he is not pushing for the summit.

After a couple days with bad weather, snowfalls and no visibility, the sun has finally came out today. There’s a little “window” but according to various forecasts, the weather will change again in the evening. There is simply not enough time to think about a summit attack. We have to patiently wait for conditions to improve…

By: Alan Arnette

Killer Mountain Rescue

The rescue team is facing the bad weather condition. They couldn’t make any progress today. They are following the given coordinates and trying their best to reach the location. The surface is actually a cornice, an overhang of hardened snow jutting out from solid ground.

The typical interventions (mainly involved avalanche) and icefall. The Karakorum expedition members, who are recruited for the rescue with strong motivation for helping and keep fighting for Mariano..

Karakorum climbers news correspondent

Nanga Parbat Rescue Operation continues..

An eight-member team of Karakorum Expeditions continues to search the missing climber Mariano. They moved to the south side of the ridge and closely looked at the face. They can see the traverse Mariano made. They can also see the ridge from which a chunk of ice fell that potentially caused the accident by sweeping the climbers off the into the highly broken glacier.Three of them will try from the south-west ridge and three from the south-east side.

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Karakorum Climber News Correspondent

Polish K2 Expedition- the dream of climbers from around the world…

Polish climbers already in the database under k2 (5 300 m). All healthy. “home” for the next month. And in pl we still have our up for 35 days:

K2 – the dream of climbers from around the world, the most difficult opponent, with which it came to measure climbers high altitude in winter conditions, and – so far – only a eight-thousander unassailable winter …

The word has been said, so once again, tirelessly – and no less ambition than a year ago – we move to the summer and then winter conquest of K2, hoping for your great support!

I constantly guided us to this same simple idea:
# K2dlaPolaków – reach the clouds, reaching peaks reach the sky!

Jerzy Natkański, head of the summer expedition to K2

 

Support team of Polish climbers in the expedition to K2 and leave their mark on the top of dreams!

Before a group of tireless Polish climbers take winter – the most difficult challenges of high altitude – the summer of 2017 years will try to tame K2, taking a trial of strength against the historical making !

The aim of the summer expedition is entering the second summit of the world with a height of 8611 m above sea level and at the same time as the best preparation – including in terms of choice of the road – a winter storm on K2 .

Why is it so important for us?

Mountain top, as used to say about her, constantly (for now! :)) it is our national challenge. Not only in winter, when the conditions for climbing are horrendously difficult, but also in the summer! Then the weather is far more gracious to us, but raise funds for the expedition far harder. Therefore, once again we ask you to #HELP! I firmly believe that – just like a year ago – with your support we will be able to organize a summer expedition to the summit of the peak of dreams!

Why we fight for K2 for the Poles?

Watch the video and find out what about getting the K2 Poles say #Wielicki Krzysztof, Leszek Jerzy #Cichy and # Natkański

– After our success in the Himalayas Winter, Zawada thought of the Karakoram and of course – as Zawada – thought of the highest peak , ie K2 . It is the end of 1987. We set off on a journey (…) that lasted nearly four months. (…) We incurred a defeat, but gained new experiences. We knew that going back ! – says Krzyszt of Wielicki , the first conqueror of Everest in winter.

Schedule expedition to K2

Summer Preparatory trip – organized under the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering them. Artur Hajzer 2016-2020 Polish Mountaineering Association – starts on 22 June 2017 year , but without your support ‘Himalayan Dream’ Poles may not come true! Helping, you can also achieve a noble goal, and what’s more – leave your mark on K2!

· June 22, 2017 – departure from Polish

· June 23, 2017 – arrival to Islamabad

· 24-25 June 2017 – drive to Skardu

· June 26, 2017 – transfer to Askole

· June 27 – July 3, 2017 – the caravan to the base under K2

· July 5, 2017 – start-up mountain

· 6-8 August 2017 – back to Skardu

· 9 August – departure from Islamabad to Polish

Route year expedition to K2

During the summer expedition to the K2 group of Polish climbers will climb the south-eastern pillar, the so-called. Basque road, which is also called by Cesena. It leads pillar between the road Kukuczka-Piotrowski, and collected Abruzzi – which Polish climbers tried to enter in 2016 – and connects to the ribs on the Abruzzi Arm between the so-called. Black Pyramid and the neck.

The database, which will commence climbers is situated at an altitude of 5150 m . From here the road leads through the camp 1 / 5900 m /, camp 2/6350 m /and camp 3/7000 m / up to Camp IV , which is scheduled for the so-called. ‘Arm’ / 8000 m / , where it will be the final attack on top .

The team – summer 2017

Summer expedition to K2 will be implemented under the leadership of George Natkańskiego.

All participants in this expedition mountaineers, who are members of the national team mountaineering Polish Mountaineering Association in 2017

Two international climbers presumed dead on Nanga Parbat..

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Islamabad: Two climbers missing on a treacherous peak in northern Pakistan known as “Killer Mountain” are now presumed dead and the rescue operation has been called off, officials said on Saturday.

The two climbers, Alberto Zerain, a Spanish alpinist, and Mariano Galvan, an Argentinian national, went missing while attempting to summit the 8,125 meter peak, Nanga Parbat.

“The search and rescue operation for the two missing alpinists has been called off as a rescue team failed to locate them this morning,” Muhammad Iqbal, owner of Summit Karakorum, the tour operating company that had arranged the climb told AFP.

File image of Mount Everest. Getty Images

Karrar Haidri, spokesman of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, confirmed that the search and rescue operation had been called off and that the alpinists were presumed dead.

A total of 14 foreign climbers were attempting to summit Nanga Parbat this year when bad weather forced them to return to base camp last week.

The two missing climbers left base camp on June 19 but were holed up in their tent for three days at an altitude of 6,100 metres (20,000 feet) due to bad weather. They tried to summit again but lost contact with fellow climbers last on Friday.

The “Killer Mountain” Nanga Parbat earned its grisly nickname after more than 30 climbers died trying to conquer it before the first successful summit in 1953.

In 2013, gunmen shot dead 10 foreign climbers and their Pakistani guide at the Nanga Parbat base camp.

Northern Pakistan is a magnet for mountaineers and is home to some of the tallest mountains in the world, including K2 — at 8,611 metres, the world’s second highest peak, but often deemed a more challenging climb than the highest, Mount Everest.

Nestled between the western end of the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush mountains and the Karakoram range, the Gilgit-Baltistan region houses 18 of the world’s 50 highest peaks.

It is also home to three of the world’s seven longest glaciers outside the polar regions. Hundreds of its mountains have never been climbed.

 

Source: Firstpost

 

Expedition team is reportedly missing at Nanga Parbat in Diamer!

Karakorum Climbers News

Two foreign climber reportdly disappeared while attempting summit Nanga_parbat, known as killer mountain.
The disappeared climbers are Mr. Alberto Zerain Berasatei Spainish, and Mr. Mariano Galacan Argentina citizen.
Disappeared climbers feared to hit snow avalanche.

More:

Police sources said that fourteen member’s foreign expedition team started climbing on Nanga Parbat mountain from Buner base camp on 20th May.

Out of them twelve members arrived back to the base camp while two are still missing. The missing mountaineers include Alberto Zerin Bersategi from Spain and Mariano Galacan from Argentina.

Karakorum Climb-

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Expedition team is reportedly missing at Nanga Parbat in Diamer!

Two foreign climbers has been disappeared while attempting summit Nanga_parbat, known as killer mountain.
The disappeared climbers are Mr. Alberto Zerain Berasatei Spainish, and Mr. Mariano Galacan Argentina citizen.
Disappeared climbers feared to hit snow avalanche.

More:

Police sources said that fourteen member’s foreign expedition team started climbing on Nanga Parbat mountain from Buner base camp on 20th May.

Out of them twelve members arrived back to the base camp while two are still missing. The missing mountaineers include Alberto Zerin Bersategi from Spain and Mariano Galacan from Argentina.

Karakorum Climb-

Swiss Machine’ Ueli Steck killed in Mt Everest accident

KATHAMANDU: Ueli Steck (41), popularly known as ‘Swiss Machine’ in the mountaineering world was killed in an accident near Camp I on Mt Everest on Sunday morning, multiple sources at the base camp of the world’s highest peak confirmed.

A group of six rescuers discovered a body of the multiple-record holder mountaineer near Nuptse Face of the Mt Everest where he could have slipped and fell on the ice-covered slope. “The team has collected the scattered parts of the climber’s body.” A Fishtail Air helicopter has also been sent to Camp I to conduct a long line rescue, according to a source at base camp.

 

Swiss alpinist Steck and Tenzing (Tenji) Sherpa headed to Khumbu region to attempt to climb Mt Everest by never repeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route without using supplemental oxygen in the spring climbing season. They also set out a plan to make a descend to the South Col before taking the once climbed direct route just below the Lhotse Face to obtain that summit record.

“Quick day from base camp up to 7,000 m and back. I love it, it’s such a great place here. I still believe in active aclimatisation. This is way more effective than spending nights up in the altitude!,” the climber posted on his facebook page on April 26.

Steck, who won two Piolet d’Or awards in 2009 and 2014, is also famous for his speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. He won his second award in 2014 after making the first solo ascent of Mt Annapurna. Steck who was the first recipient of the Eiger Award for his mountaineering achievements in 2008, also completed his 82 Summits project, ascending all 4000 m peaks in the Alps, in 61 days in 2015.

According to him, he spent two nights in camp II. His facebook post on April 24 indicated that Tenzing suffered frostbite a few days ago.  “Hopefully Tenzing Sherpa frostbite is getting better soon so we can be together on the mountain again.”

In 2013, an ambitious plan to summit Mt Everest was foiled after Steck along with Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith engaged in a heated confrontation with rope fixing Sherpas.

Last year, Steck and his German climbing partner, David Göttler, spotted the bodies of Alex Lowe and David Bridges who died in an avalanche on Mt Shishapangma in 1999.

According to the Department of Tourism, Ueli Steck was a leader of one the Everest expeditions locally managed by Kathmandu-based Royal Orchid Treks and Expedition.

Steck was not only the greatest alpinist in the world but also a good friend of Nepal, senior Captain with Manang Air Ashish Sherchan who flew the alpinist to different locations on Mt Everest recently remembered.

“I can’t express what a loss this is to the mountaineering community, Ueli loved Nepal, Everest and the Himalaya,” renowned climber Alan Arnette commented from Colorado.

According to Durga Datta Dhakal, Director at the Department of Tourism, Ueli’s body was airlifted to Lukla.

original source

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/swiss-machine-ueli-steck-killed-in-mt-everest-accident/