Killer Mountain Rescue

The rescue team is facing the bad weather condition. They couldn’t make any progress today. They are following the given coordinates and trying their best to reach the location. The surface is actually a cornice, an overhang of hardened snow jutting out from solid ground.

The typical interventions (mainly involved avalanche) and icefall. The Karakorum expedition members, who are recruited for the rescue with strong motivation for helping and keep fighting for Mariano..

Karakorum climbers news correspondent

Nanga Parbat Rescue Operation continues..

An eight-member team of Karakorum Expeditions continues to search the missing climber Mariano. They moved to the south side of the ridge and closely looked at the face. They can see the traverse Mariano made. They can also see the ridge from which a chunk of ice fell that potentially caused the accident by sweeping the climbers off the into the highly broken glacier.Three of them will try from the south-west ridge and three from the south-east side.

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Karakorum Climber News Correspondent

Polish K2 Expedition- the dream of climbers from around the world…

Polish climbers already in the database under k2 (5 300 m). All healthy. “home” for the next month. And in pl we still have our up for 35 days:

K2 – the dream of climbers from around the world, the most difficult opponent, with which it came to measure climbers high altitude in winter conditions, and – so far – only a eight-thousander unassailable winter …

The word has been said, so once again, tirelessly – and no less ambition than a year ago – we move to the summer and then winter conquest of K2, hoping for your great support!

I constantly guided us to this same simple idea:
# K2dlaPolaków – reach the clouds, reaching peaks reach the sky!

Jerzy Natkański, head of the summer expedition to K2

 

Support team of Polish climbers in the expedition to K2 and leave their mark on the top of dreams!

Before a group of tireless Polish climbers take winter – the most difficult challenges of high altitude – the summer of 2017 years will try to tame K2, taking a trial of strength against the historical making !

The aim of the summer expedition is entering the second summit of the world with a height of 8611 m above sea level and at the same time as the best preparation – including in terms of choice of the road – a winter storm on K2 .

Why is it so important for us?

Mountain top, as used to say about her, constantly (for now! :)) it is our national challenge. Not only in winter, when the conditions for climbing are horrendously difficult, but also in the summer! Then the weather is far more gracious to us, but raise funds for the expedition far harder. Therefore, once again we ask you to #HELP! I firmly believe that – just like a year ago – with your support we will be able to organize a summer expedition to the summit of the peak of dreams!

Why we fight for K2 for the Poles?

Watch the video and find out what about getting the K2 Poles say #Wielicki Krzysztof, Leszek Jerzy #Cichy and # Natkański

– After our success in the Himalayas Winter, Zawada thought of the Karakoram and of course – as Zawada – thought of the highest peak , ie K2 . It is the end of 1987. We set off on a journey (…) that lasted nearly four months. (…) We incurred a defeat, but gained new experiences. We knew that going back ! – says Krzyszt of Wielicki , the first conqueror of Everest in winter.

Schedule expedition to K2

Summer Preparatory trip – organized under the Polish Winter Himalayan Mountaineering them. Artur Hajzer 2016-2020 Polish Mountaineering Association – starts on 22 June 2017 year , but without your support ‘Himalayan Dream’ Poles may not come true! Helping, you can also achieve a noble goal, and what’s more – leave your mark on K2!

· June 22, 2017 – departure from Polish

· June 23, 2017 – arrival to Islamabad

· 24-25 June 2017 – drive to Skardu

· June 26, 2017 – transfer to Askole

· June 27 – July 3, 2017 – the caravan to the base under K2

· July 5, 2017 – start-up mountain

· 6-8 August 2017 – back to Skardu

· 9 August – departure from Islamabad to Polish

Route year expedition to K2

During the summer expedition to the K2 group of Polish climbers will climb the south-eastern pillar, the so-called. Basque road, which is also called by Cesena. It leads pillar between the road Kukuczka-Piotrowski, and collected Abruzzi – which Polish climbers tried to enter in 2016 – and connects to the ribs on the Abruzzi Arm between the so-called. Black Pyramid and the neck.

The database, which will commence climbers is situated at an altitude of 5150 m . From here the road leads through the camp 1 / 5900 m /, camp 2/6350 m /and camp 3/7000 m / up to Camp IV , which is scheduled for the so-called. ‘Arm’ / 8000 m / , where it will be the final attack on top .

The team – summer 2017

Summer expedition to K2 will be implemented under the leadership of George Natkańskiego.

All participants in this expedition mountaineers, who are members of the national team mountaineering Polish Mountaineering Association in 2017

Two international climbers presumed dead on Nanga Parbat..

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Islamabad: Two climbers missing on a treacherous peak in northern Pakistan known as “Killer Mountain” are now presumed dead and the rescue operation has been called off, officials said on Saturday.

The two climbers, Alberto Zerain, a Spanish alpinist, and Mariano Galvan, an Argentinian national, went missing while attempting to summit the 8,125 meter peak, Nanga Parbat.

“The search and rescue operation for the two missing alpinists has been called off as a rescue team failed to locate them this morning,” Muhammad Iqbal, owner of Summit Karakorum, the tour operating company that had arranged the climb told AFP.

File image of Mount Everest. Getty Images

Karrar Haidri, spokesman of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, confirmed that the search and rescue operation had been called off and that the alpinists were presumed dead.

A total of 14 foreign climbers were attempting to summit Nanga Parbat this year when bad weather forced them to return to base camp last week.

The two missing climbers left base camp on June 19 but were holed up in their tent for three days at an altitude of 6,100 metres (20,000 feet) due to bad weather. They tried to summit again but lost contact with fellow climbers last on Friday.

The “Killer Mountain” Nanga Parbat earned its grisly nickname after more than 30 climbers died trying to conquer it before the first successful summit in 1953.

In 2013, gunmen shot dead 10 foreign climbers and their Pakistani guide at the Nanga Parbat base camp.

Northern Pakistan is a magnet for mountaineers and is home to some of the tallest mountains in the world, including K2 — at 8,611 metres, the world’s second highest peak, but often deemed a more challenging climb than the highest, Mount Everest.

Nestled between the western end of the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush mountains and the Karakoram range, the Gilgit-Baltistan region houses 18 of the world’s 50 highest peaks.

It is also home to three of the world’s seven longest glaciers outside the polar regions. Hundreds of its mountains have never been climbed.

 

Source: Firstpost

 

Expedition team is reportedly missing at Nanga Parbat in Diamer!

Karakorum Climbers News

Two foreign climber reportdly disappeared while attempting summit Nanga_parbat, known as killer mountain.
The disappeared climbers are Mr. Alberto Zerain Berasatei Spainish, and Mr. Mariano Galacan Argentina citizen.
Disappeared climbers feared to hit snow avalanche.

More:

Police sources said that fourteen member’s foreign expedition team started climbing on Nanga Parbat mountain from Buner base camp on 20th May.

Out of them twelve members arrived back to the base camp while two are still missing. The missing mountaineers include Alberto Zerin Bersategi from Spain and Mariano Galacan from Argentina.

Karakorum Climb-

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Expedition team is reportedly missing at Nanga Parbat in Diamer!

Two foreign climbers has been disappeared while attempting summit Nanga_parbat, known as killer mountain.
The disappeared climbers are Mr. Alberto Zerain Berasatei Spainish, and Mr. Mariano Galacan Argentina citizen.
Disappeared climbers feared to hit snow avalanche.

More:

Police sources said that fourteen member’s foreign expedition team started climbing on Nanga Parbat mountain from Buner base camp on 20th May.

Out of them twelve members arrived back to the base camp while two are still missing. The missing mountaineers include Alberto Zerin Bersategi from Spain and Mariano Galacan from Argentina.

Karakorum Climb-

Swiss Machine’ Ueli Steck killed in Mt Everest accident

KATHAMANDU: Ueli Steck (41), popularly known as ‘Swiss Machine’ in the mountaineering world was killed in an accident near Camp I on Mt Everest on Sunday morning, multiple sources at the base camp of the world’s highest peak confirmed.

A group of six rescuers discovered a body of the multiple-record holder mountaineer near Nuptse Face of the Mt Everest where he could have slipped and fell on the ice-covered slope. “The team has collected the scattered parts of the climber’s body.” A Fishtail Air helicopter has also been sent to Camp I to conduct a long line rescue, according to a source at base camp.

 

Swiss alpinist Steck and Tenzing (Tenji) Sherpa headed to Khumbu region to attempt to climb Mt Everest by never repeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route without using supplemental oxygen in the spring climbing season. They also set out a plan to make a descend to the South Col before taking the once climbed direct route just below the Lhotse Face to obtain that summit record.

“Quick day from base camp up to 7,000 m and back. I love it, it’s such a great place here. I still believe in active aclimatisation. This is way more effective than spending nights up in the altitude!,” the climber posted on his facebook page on April 26.

Steck, who won two Piolet d’Or awards in 2009 and 2014, is also famous for his speed records on the North Face trilogy in the Alps. He won his second award in 2014 after making the first solo ascent of Mt Annapurna. Steck who was the first recipient of the Eiger Award for his mountaineering achievements in 2008, also completed his 82 Summits project, ascending all 4000 m peaks in the Alps, in 61 days in 2015.

According to him, he spent two nights in camp II. His facebook post on April 24 indicated that Tenzing suffered frostbite a few days ago.  “Hopefully Tenzing Sherpa frostbite is getting better soon so we can be together on the mountain again.”

In 2013, an ambitious plan to summit Mt Everest was foiled after Steck along with Italian alpinist Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith engaged in a heated confrontation with rope fixing Sherpas.

Last year, Steck and his German climbing partner, David Göttler, spotted the bodies of Alex Lowe and David Bridges who died in an avalanche on Mt Shishapangma in 1999.

According to the Department of Tourism, Ueli Steck was a leader of one the Everest expeditions locally managed by Kathmandu-based Royal Orchid Treks and Expedition.

Steck was not only the greatest alpinist in the world but also a good friend of Nepal, senior Captain with Manang Air Ashish Sherchan who flew the alpinist to different locations on Mt Everest recently remembered.

“I can’t express what a loss this is to the mountaineering community, Ueli loved Nepal, Everest and the Himalaya,” renowned climber Alan Arnette commented from Colorado.

According to Durga Datta Dhakal, Director at the Department of Tourism, Ueli’s body was airlifted to Lukla.

original source

https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/swiss-machine-ueli-steck-killed-in-mt-everest-accident/

Alex Txikon’s on Final Everest Winter Summit Push

Alex Txikon’s team is back on Everest for what will be their last push to summit Everest in Winter. They need to top out by March 20 to claim that prize.

LATEST: Their GPS tracker still shows them at Camp 2 as of this post midnight, Wednesday March 7 Everest time. They should be on their way to the summit, somewhere near the Balcony, to miss the high winds. Let’s hope the tracker is not working or turned off.

 

Recovering from First Attempt

After a difficult first attempt, they retreated to Kathmandu, somewhat under duress (see this recap of that effort) for 8 days.  They ate, slept and recovered. A climber will usually keep their acclimatization for a few weeks once achieved, so the 8 day rest at 5,000 feet will not impact this acclimatization and allow him to recover.

Txikon swapped out original crew of Sherps for reasons not cited. Most likely the Sherpas, who work for Seven Summits Treks, are committed to work on Everest for the Spring season and need to rest up. They will start setting with Base Camp in a few weeks.

Txikon will be climbing with five Sherpas who will all be using supplemental oxygen, Txikon will not use supplemental Os. The plan is for Txikon and Nuri Sherpa to go to the summit. It appears that Txikon’s cameraman and  and other teammate will not be on the summit push.

Messner Visit

Reinhold Messner  was in Nepal and flew to Base Camp to wish Txikon the best as he left for Camp 2 on 6 March. Their last location per their GPS tracker showed them there. Remember, that tracker has been inaccurate several times over the past couple of months.

When they returned from Kathmandu, the team had to reestablish 60% of the route thru the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall moves constantly, sometimes as much as 3 feet a day in some sections, so ladders will fall into crevasses and ropes will be lost.

This is the Last Attempt

Txikon posted on his Facebook page:

TIME TO GO FOR IT! We are already in the 2C where we will spend the night and leave at dawn. With the strength that Messner has transmitted to us, we have come upwards with our eyes set on the balmy 8848 meters that reaches our dream. In the last weeks, the weather has not played in our favor, but we have a very small truce until Wednesday; Moment in which we will try to finish the adventure. Nuri, my Nepalese companion, will accompany me to the top and German, Temba, Sanu and Pasang Nurbu will be our support.Until now, the wind does not stop and hit us hard, but the mere fact of having the opportunity to try, pushes us forward.Fingers crossed. I need you more than ever to be with me.Let’s go for the last attempt!

Weather

The largest challenge in climbing almost any mountain in Winter are the winds. This is what stopped them last time. Windchills were near -100F. It remains to be seen if the weather cooperates this time. As this forecast shows, the SUMMIT winds are forecasted to remain high with extremely cold temperatures over the next few days, but there is a tiny window on Wednesday morning.

At some point the Txikon will lose the physical strength for another summit attempt. He had already lost over 25 pounds on the first push. My general rule of thumb is that if you lose 10% of your body weight, you will not have the strength to summit. That said, Txikon is an unusually strong and fit climber as proven on his Winter summit of Nanga Pabart last year.

This is the latest from the computer model from Mountain Forecast for the summit of Everest:

 Nepal Wants more Money?

In a strange twist, the Nepal newspaper The Himalayan Times, is reporting that the Ministry of Tourism is asking Txikon to pay $11,000 for another climbing permit. They claim that the Winter permit he bought expires at the end of February.

Follow

Again, follow their ascent from his GPS tracker. Warning, this system has been somewhat unreliable throughout their climb.

Best of luck to Alex and team. The whole mountaineering world is pulling for their safe ascent, summit and return.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Original Source : http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/03/07/alex-txikons-on-final-everest-winter-summit-push/