Elisabeth Rovel & Naga Parbat 8126m Winter Expedition 2014-2015, Summit push Story

Elisabeth Revol is back home after a quick return trip from Nanga Parbat. In recent blog post, she details the amazing journey from 7800m on the mountain to France, in less than a week. Here is a summary of the article, with help from Google Translate.

January 17th: The 7800m Day
Elisabeth starts the chronicle with description of intense cold and the amazing beauty at around 7200m on the evening of January 16th. Everything except sleeping bags was frozen. Considering the wind factor, it was chilling somewhere around -40/-50 °C. However, the sunset at that altitude was simply breathtaking. The intense cold joined by excitement about upcoming summit push didn’t let the climbers sleep all night.

It wasn’t a long night, anyway. After spending an hour getting ready, the two climbers were out of their tent by 3 am. “The awkwardness of the narrow space (inside tent) disappeared; we were in our element – crampons and ice axes – at work”

The ascent continued in freezing wintery conditions. “This was really the first time that I felt such a cold, I think. I knew that any stop or variation would be fatal. We were on a 8000er in extremely harsh conditions of winter. Even if the route wasn’t quite technical, winter conditions meant that it was one of the most committed climbs in my life.”

By mid-day, they were at around 7800m where the route joins Hermann Buhl’s line of Nanga Parbat’s first ascent. But the weather was turning worse and they were forced to retreat. “When I reached out, I could “feel” the summit with the touch of my finger. It was very close. My heartbeat increased, but we were to remain calm. It was frustrating; wasn’t easy to turn around, especially when you look at all the progress made so far.”

Elisabeth Revol; Source

The 10 Day Summit Push
Elisabeth goes on to tell us about the progress that lead to summit push on 17th. “We left BC on Friday, January 9. Bags were heavy under the provisioning of 10 days to be spent at high altitude. The route was long. This year, it was the only possible route, others being partly bare ice and very dry.”

First night was spent in the middle of Diamir glacier. On day two, they climbed on scree along the right bank of the glacier for a long time to C2, under Ganalo Peak. Following day, they tackle huge crevasses towards C3, at the foot of the route taken by Messner in 2000. Due to strong wind, they didn’t go any further on fourth day.

On day-5, the climbers negotiated several seracs to reach C3 (around 6600mm). “Next day we continued our progression to 7000m. It was very cold. Tomek felt cold in the feet; I froze my nose tip. The sun came out late at around 11am. But we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.” A day later, they were bivouacking at 7200m.

On eighth day, they went up (hoping to make a summit push), but turned back from 7500m. As Tomek said in his audio message, they miscalculated the distance. Day nine was the summit push day.

Wind sweeps the summit of Nanga Parbat; Source

The Descent
From 7800m, the two climbers descended to bivouac at 7200m. However, they were out of gas and food by then. “To kill the hunger and thirst, we were discussing the project,” says Elisabeth.

“We begin our descent, next day. We knew, we had to rely on ourselves, as Daniele had sent us a clear and directive message upon our arrival at C4; asserting that since we had not taken the radio, he would not trigger emergency if we had a situation, rather than encouraging us on our progress. Long live the “friendship” in the mountains…”

The descent continued in good meteorological conditions as they reached 6500m.

Tomek Disappeared
“With a bang I see the feet of Tomek and his body tipping over: the snow bridge had ruptured. I scream “Tomek …! …” It was of no use, as he was already gone. I approached the edge of the crevasse. Blank … the scene was horrible; I discovered a snow slope at 80°, and a black hole. My God! Tomek! I was still screaming his name, but there was no reply. Everything runs through my head: his children, his girlfriend Ana, my husband Jean-Christophe, and I alone on this hostile glacier … Great moment of solitude…” Elisabeth goes on to describe the event of crevasse fall at around 6500m.

“And finally, I see a very small thing – my God, it’s Tomek- “Tomek, how are you? Did you broke something? Can you come back? It is high.” He replied, “I do not think I broke anything, but I might not climb back up.”

Elisabeth immediately went down to retrieve a rope, they had stored approximately 200m below. Upon her return, she called for Tomek but didn’t get any answer from crevasse. “Finally, from far away [I heard] “Eli …” This wasn’t from the bottom of the crevasse, but on the left. After recovering from his emotions, he explained: he walked along the bottom of the crevasse on precarious bridges and found a possible exit.”

Tomek was given painkillers and the two climbers slowly descended to lower camps and eventually reached BC.

Tomek Mackiewicz; Source

The Departure
Elisabeth left BC on January 21st, to catch her flight from Islamabad on 23rd. “Very surprised at the negative version of Daniele; I can nevertheless reassure those around me that I had and that I will keep strong friendships.”

She believes that good weather window on Nanga Parbat is gone. “I left the base camp under a blue sky, which is quickly going to change. The sky may have saved us before. As if for a month the mountain had accepted us and spared, and now it was time to leave this place.”

Original Source.Altitudepakistan.blogspot.com

Pakistan, National Youth Ski Camp

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Turn right, turn left, repeat as necessary

Skiing in Pakistan has been in vogue for quite a while. Neighbourhood inhabitants of cold uneven landscape of the northern parts of Pakistan utilized extemporized wooden skis to drive in winters.

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Author: Samiya Rafiq

The first ever-National Youth Skiing Camp was recently organized by Mirza Ali, the founding president of Pakistan Youth Outreach Program ,The event is continuity of Youth Outdoor awareness and education Program, Mirza Ali formally spearheaded skiing by following the international traditionof keeping this game in the center of the winter sports on a countrywide level, which is sponsored by Alpinist.at ,Serena Hotel, AKRSP, Karakorum Expeditions, and Epic Energy, with the support of Stephen Keck, a professional skiing trainer from Austria.Mr.Stephan and Mr.Andreas came all the way from Austria to make this event successful!

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Skiing is an energizing sport, not just for the individuals who hone it but also for those who are willing to participate. This is a sport that not just adjusts physical abilities and mental coordination but also gives a hard-to-match rush of energy and a thrilling experience. Other than this, skiing gives the skier a chance to break the tedium of greatly occupied motorized urban life, and be closer to nature and far from contaminated climate.

“I have taken a new challenge, new direction, and new commitment, and I am all for it, to promote winter sports and make this phenomenon common for every willing heart in my country to produce best winter sports athletes and, more importantly, people who love going in the surprisingly comforting frosty embrace of mother nature and play with powder snow,” said Mirza Ali.

The state consistently gets a portion of the best snow and has a rich convention of supporting development and improvement in skiing and mountain climbing. Shimshal offers probably the most remarkable trails and exciting rides you’ll ever have the fortune to discover.

0010.jpgMisba Ali, a participant from Gulmit, Hunza shared her experience said, “This camp is intended to be a hopping off point for me, I had various memorable moments associated with the National Youth Skiing Camp, many having to do with other participants and listening to their stories, and the training we got was of the highest quality; fun being active really gave me a needed boost in athletics.”

Waqar Ali was simply super overjoyed about skiing and yes, that was the ah-ha moment of his going down the run,” he said. “It’s absolutely that twofold clench hand pump moment of “I can do this” and “I can ski,” and the smile on my face and the freedom. It was really great!.”

Mirza Ali and his sister, Samina Baig, from the beautiful valley of Shimshal, are by-and-large taken to be the pioneers of out-door and winter extreme sports in Pakistan. The world legendary, Samina Baig is the first ever female to conquer Mount Everest in 2013. In 2014, Mirza Ali and Samina Baig also vanquished the seven highest summits in seven continents. Samina was trained and assisted by her brother Mirza Ali who is a professional climber. In addition, to preparing and coaching young athletes, the fellowship also provided a platform for youngsters to get inspiration from Samina and kept the youth engaged in solid sport activities. Mirza has experienced his affection for the outdoor in numerous climbing endeavors. Together with his sister, Samina, the rising young female climber in Pakistan, Mirza established an institution, Pakistan Youth Outreach, to promote the advance outdoor training, mountaineering, and winter sports among youth in Pakistan.

The event was possible with help of Alpinist.at and Stephan Keck, Mr. Stephen keck is an Alpine Guide, Extreme Mountain Climber, Sports Photograph. He grew up in the Austrian Alps, and already had the opportunity to meet the mountains when he was a child. Furthermore, he is a professionally trained skiing and snowboard instructor.Mr.Stphan provide the equipment for skiing along Mr.Andreas, who is also a ski instructor in Austria.

Annie, a participant from Hunza said, “Winter sports are tremendous for keeping up a healthy lifestyle, getting a charge out of stunning landscape and messing around with companions. The ski slope has been magnificent, sunlight and grins.”

Nasira was a bit nervous in the beginning, when she was going to take a ski training, she said “I would doubtlessly recommend this to a newbie. It’s simple, easy, and fun. You really do focus on the movements you need to ride or ski, so you learn in a ton immediately.”

At the recent camp, there were 13 females and 20 males who came from Karachi, Islamabad, Hunza, and Shimshal. They learned how to make a wedge turn, a lead change, a breakthrough to parallel, slide a 360 on the snow, take a better line in the bumps, and even ski a steep line. The resort offers open slants, lift lines, and an extraordinary mixed bag of runs, including learner level, and inclines that won’t scare the maturing skier. “You’re paying for what truly matters: access to extraordinary sports. It’s marvellous to see youngsters across Pakistan who have at least thought that great things never came from within the comfort zone,” said Samiya Rafiq.

Speaking about her experience, participant Maria from Shimshal said, “I think particularly with winter games, there’s a gigantic stigma with individuals who didn’t experience childhood with skis or close to the snow that its truly difficult to get into, special thanks to Mirza Ali and Samina Baig to provide the platform for the youth and promote such a great winter sports”.

Sohail Ahmed Baig demonstrated his experience “I tell everybody that this event was priceless. If you come with an open mind, you will realize it’s not as hard as you think it is. I get so much out of the experience, for me it’s such a rewarding feeling.”

Zartghurban, a 4-hour trek from Shimshal valley, is the greatest or the flashiest ski range in the area, yet it has an astounding beginner program and, in its master region, Zartghurban serves up north-bound pitches. It also emphasizes the astoundingly height base of the Zartghurban at approximately 3,600 feet. Zartghurban offers extraordinary snow and a lot of space to strengthen your abilities. The beautifully positioned campsite is the perfect place to stay surrounded by nature and lovely views of the mountains.

Nanga Parbat.Russian Winter Expedition 2014/2015 ,Updates

Nanga Parbat. The winter expedition by Russian team.

Expedition chronicle

Nanga Rupal Face

Jan, 4 ,2015

SMS from the team: “We prepared the route from C1 till 5900. In summer the local guides had removed all ropes stayed on the route after the Polish and Italian expeditions. We found only one hook. Now rest in BC”.

1 января 2014/ Jan, 1 Meet the team members: one of them, Serguey Kondrashkin, is not only great high-altitude mountaineer, Snow Leopard, who climbed Lhotse (normal route) in 2013 with Victor Koval and Alex Borodenkov and did the first ever winter traverse of Bezengi Wall during 12 days. He’s also the ingenious sculptor, whose works are in Hermitage and a lot of private collections in Russia, Holland, China, Belgium, Italy and Finland, and decorate the streets in different towns.

You can see some of them:

See more in album

31 декабря 2014/ Dec, 31 The team wishes Happy New Year to all riders! (SMS from the Base Camp)

30 декабря 2014/ Dec, 30 СМС от команды: “Поставили С1 на маршруте Шелла на 5250. Отдыхаем в ВС. Все ОК”.

SMS from the team: We set C1 on Shell route at 5250 m. Now rest in BC. All is OK”.

27 декабря 2014/ Dec, 27 СМС от команды: “Мы в базовом лагере. ВСе ОК”.

SMS from the team: “WE’re in thr Base Camp. All is OK”.

25 декабря 2014/ Dec, 25 

“Hi from sunny Islamabad!

Tomorrow our small team’ll start from here. We’ve solved all org. issues, bought food, and are going to begin our way to BC by jeeps on 4 a.m. Plan to reach Chilas, next day – Astor. BTW, we’ll have theb bring there, not in Islamabad.”

22 декабря 2014/ Dec, 22

Слева направо: Николай Тотмянин, Сергей Кондрашкин, Валерий Шамало, Виктор Коваль / From left to right: Nickolay Totmjanin, Serguey Kondrashkin, Valery Shamalo, Victor Kova

Восхождение планируется делать с Рупальской стороны (вариант м-та Shell). Базовый лагерь будет на 3600 м. Есть незамерзающий ручей, кусты. Будут ставить три высотных лагеря. На вершину хотят идти из С3 (около 7000 м), с промежуточной ночевкой в маленькой палатке. Веревки взяли 500 м (репшнур).

Снаряжения всего-то по два баула на каждого. Кстати, компания Emirates очень помогла команде – разрешила взять на борт бесплатно не по 30 кг груза, а по 40, плюс ручная кладь! Так что в провожающим оставили только все снегоступы (в надежде, что купить их в Исламабаде будет дешевле, чем переплачивать за перевес)

Так что… проводили. Желаем удачи!

The team start today by flight St Petersburg – Dubai- Islamabad, where ATP company will meet them. The guys planning to finish all organization issues in two days, and begin to start their way to the Base Camp.

They want to climb from Rupal Face, (Shell’s variant). BC will be at 3600 m. There’s the nonfreezing stream.

The climbing plan is: C1, C2, C3 (about 7000 m), the rest and the sturm with the small tent, which they’ll set on the route between C3 and the top. 500 m of rope is in the luggage – that’s all rope.

Two pieces of luggage for everybody – is it enough for winter Nanga? BTW, Emirates company allowed our guys to carry out 40 kg of loads free of charge instead of 30 kg! So, they fly without only 4 pair of snowshoes. (in hope that to buy them in Islamabad will be cheaper, than to overpay for overweight)

Original source, http://www.russianclimb.com/karakorum/2015/nanga_parbat

Godwin-Austen Biography

By Catherine Moorehead

The following will be of interest to your web-followers interested in
K2, mountaineering history and biography, and mountaineering and
science.

The first and authorised biography of Haversham Godwin-Austen
(1834-1923), K2’s earliest explorer, will be published on September 30,
2013. For further information about the book, please go to the
publisher’s website, www.nwp.co.uk and on the home page Main Menu click
on Forthcoming Titles.

Godwin-Austen was the first serious explorer of the Karakaram. He also
made the first survey-explorations of Rupshu, Ladakh and Zanskar,
Western Tibet and the Aksai Chin, and a large part of Kashmir,
including the Pir Panjal, the Kaj Nag and the first Western
near-approach to Nun-Kun. During this period, he made at least four
ascents above 6000m and at least 18 ascents above 5000m, all before the
Matterhorn had been climbed.

In 1864, he joined a Diplomatic Mission to Bhutan and made the first
map of its Western  part. He was then sent to survey the Nagaland and
Manipur areas of Northern Burma and Assam, where he made many further
ascents and surveyed vast areas of country.

On his return to England in 1877, he became perhaps the greatest-ever
malacologist (one who studies molluscs), and made important and
extensive contributions to the study of geology, ornithology, zoology
and anthropology.

He enjoyed quite a colourful private life, marrying three times. First,
to an Afghan landowner’s daughter, then to an English socialite (living
in India) and then to a local Surrey lady. He converted to Islam for
the sake of his first marriage, and it is highly likely that he
converted to Buddhism in his later years.

This biography offers a great deal of wholly new material and corrects
current inaccuracies in the public domain. It is extensively
illustrated with approx. 50 colour plates, many of them Godwin-Austen’s
own watercolours, including one of K2 from approx. 1000m above the
Baltoro at Urdukas, the first close sighting of the mountain. There are
also eight maps.

Further information can also be obtained from the author, Catherine
Moorehead, at : katetmc@aol.com

Broad Peak Triumph & Ordeal 2013

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2013 was the deadliest season ever seen in the Karakoram. When John Quillen found his climbing partner lying face down with a shattered leg in the snow high on the flanks of Broad Peak, the drama had just begun. See what transpired through first hand accounts of the deaths of three team members on this ill fated expedition to the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods.

Please follow the link and read the detail story! http://johnquille0.wix.com/broadpeak

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HAPPY NEW YEAR 2014

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HAPPY NEW YEAR  2014  We at KCN,wish all of you a Very Happy and wonderful New year, May this Year Bring lots of Adventure and more extreme and more amazing Adventure stories to share,
We wish All those Teams already Climbing in Pakistan, Nanga Parbat , we Wish all four Expedition a Very Blessed and successful as well as Safe New year!

Nanga Parbat Winter: four expeditions with very different approaches

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Web Desk.Nanga Parbat Winter seems the script for a movie: in a shed two solo climbers, each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side two expeditions with very different-sponsorship classic micropatronage (crowdfunding) budget holders – share route.

The Nanga Parbat, missing for eight thousand penultimate climb in winter, it seems the script for a film in a shed (Diamir) Two climbers alone ( Ralf Dujmovits and Daniele Nardi ), each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side (Rupal) two expeditions ( The North Face directed by Simone Moro andPolish ) with very different economic brackets – traditional sponsorshipand crowdfunding ( crowdfunding ) – shared route. A path in which it is possible to remain still remains fixed strings only climb on last season to this ochomil. In everyone’s mind (though more on those who remain in the Diamir side of) the murder of 11 people in the base of this slope field at the end of last June. To the dangers of the mountain climbers (and staff accompanying them at base camp cooks, etc …) have to add the possibility of another terrorist attack. Staying in the same place a few months ago 11 people were killed and psychologically hard … To our knowledge, at least Darek Zaluski and Ralf Dujmovits are “escorted” at base camp by three armed police with Kalashnikov .

Italian Daniele Nardi has announced his return to Nanga project this winter

Nanga Parbat has gained a new tenant this winter in the figure Daniele Nardi . The Italian climber joins the cast of expeditions looking to get the first winter ascent of the mountain. It will be the fourth attempt this expedition Pakistani peak 8126 meters this winter, in addition to the Polish team, Simone Moro and Ralf Dujmovits.

Plans passed by Daniele Nardi and Mummery spolón the Diamir side.This is the same route that already tried last winter, then by the French alpinist climber Elisabeth Revol . Both reached a peak of 6450 meters before retiring because of poor weather conditions. His intention this year is to face the mountain alone, although it has not closed the door to his partner last season decides to change his mind and back this time.

“I decided to split a month later to get me off the pressure to be first, I want to make my mountaineering”

It is noteworthy that Daniele Nardi has scheduled his trip with a significant delay with respect to the other expeditions. No travel to Pakistan until 20 January. “My main goal is to be the first to the summit of Nanga Parbat, but ascend the spur Mummery in alpine style in winter” , says the mountaineer in a statement on its website, where notes that “I do not like competitions in mountain, especially in such delicate and difficult. Everything must be perfect. I can not leave with the idea of racing to get there first, the style is more important to me at this time. .. I decided a month later from the onset of winter especially for this reason, I wanted to get me off the pressure of having to be the first, I want to make my mountaineering “ .

Daniele Nardi, 37 years old, is credited with five eight-thousanders, including Mount Everest and K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer are counted. It has also opened new routes in Nepal, Pakistan and India, most notably in the online open Bhagiratti III in 2011.

Ralf Dujmovits to 4900 meters

Daniele Nardi, which will have the company of a chef and an assistant in his base camp, will neighbors Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski , even if you have opted for the Messner route for the climbing, which held German solo from the 5,000 meters , as previously announced. Ralf and Darek have been the first to settle in this base camp, which in summer was the scene of the terrorist attack that killed eleven people. Three armed cops remain with them in base camp to protect them .

The German and Polish have slept tonight at a height of 4900 meters, at the point already reached in its previous recognition of the mountain. It is located below where field 1 is usually installed in the Kinshofer route, just at the point you start your journey Messner laying plans Ralf up. If conditions are good today (last time they had was terrible: 70 to 80 km / h wind) had planned to continue to the point where C1 is usually installed in the Messner route and descend to base camp in the afternoon. As already reported Ralf has ruled Kinshofer route blue ice abundance in the lift line.

The Poles have reached 5700 meters

Across the mountains in the Rupal side, the Polish expedition has been the early bird this year and has taken the lead in altitude ascended so far: they celebrated Christmas dinner in field 1 (5100 meters), passed one night at 5,500 meters which have been termed C1A and have even reached 5,700 feet of a deposit of material.

In its fourth winter in the Nanga Parbat, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski have traveled in good company. His team consists of six people in total. The climbers Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj and field assistants based Dzikowski Michal and Michal Obrycki complete the expedition, bearing the slogan solidarity Justice For All (Justice for All), and was financed by 80% thanks to a successful micromecenaje campaign.

Simone Moro is already in Pakistan

Finally, the issue of Simone Moro , David Göttler and Emilio Previtalihas traveled to Pakistan during the past weekend. Both Italian and German are installed imminently at base camp Rupal side of from where they will try to climb the Schell Route, which will coincide with the Poles.

original source:Desnival.com

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