Broad Peak Triumph & Ordeal 2013

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2013 was the deadliest season ever seen in the Karakoram. When John Quillen found his climbing partner lying face down with a shattered leg in the snow high on the flanks of Broad Peak, the drama had just begun. See what transpired through first hand accounts of the deaths of three team members on this ill fated expedition to the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods.

Please follow the link and read the detail story! http://johnquille0.wix.com/broadpeak

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HAPPY NEW YEAR 2014

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HAPPY NEW YEAR  2014  We at KCN,wish all of you a Very Happy and wonderful New year, May this Year Bring lots of Adventure and more extreme and more amazing Adventure stories to share,
We wish All those Teams already Climbing in Pakistan, Nanga Parbat , we Wish all four Expedition a Very Blessed and successful as well as Safe New year!

Nanga Parbat Winter: four expeditions with very different approaches

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Web Desk.Nanga Parbat Winter seems the script for a movie: in a shed two solo climbers, each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side two expeditions with very different-sponsorship classic micropatronage (crowdfunding) budget holders – share route.

The Nanga Parbat, missing for eight thousand penultimate climb in winter, it seems the script for a film in a shed (Diamir) Two climbers alone ( Ralf Dujmovits and Daniele Nardi ), each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side (Rupal) two expeditions ( The North Face directed by Simone Moro andPolish ) with very different economic brackets – traditional sponsorshipand crowdfunding ( crowdfunding ) – shared route. A path in which it is possible to remain still remains fixed strings only climb on last season to this ochomil. In everyone’s mind (though more on those who remain in the Diamir side of) the murder of 11 people in the base of this slope field at the end of last June. To the dangers of the mountain climbers (and staff accompanying them at base camp cooks, etc …) have to add the possibility of another terrorist attack. Staying in the same place a few months ago 11 people were killed and psychologically hard … To our knowledge, at least Darek Zaluski and Ralf Dujmovits are “escorted” at base camp by three armed police with Kalashnikov .

Italian Daniele Nardi has announced his return to Nanga project this winter

Nanga Parbat has gained a new tenant this winter in the figure Daniele Nardi . The Italian climber joins the cast of expeditions looking to get the first winter ascent of the mountain. It will be the fourth attempt this expedition Pakistani peak 8126 meters this winter, in addition to the Polish team, Simone Moro and Ralf Dujmovits.

Plans passed by Daniele Nardi and Mummery spolón the Diamir side.This is the same route that already tried last winter, then by the French alpinist climber Elisabeth Revol . Both reached a peak of 6450 meters before retiring because of poor weather conditions. His intention this year is to face the mountain alone, although it has not closed the door to his partner last season decides to change his mind and back this time.

“I decided to split a month later to get me off the pressure to be first, I want to make my mountaineering”

It is noteworthy that Daniele Nardi has scheduled his trip with a significant delay with respect to the other expeditions. No travel to Pakistan until 20 January. “My main goal is to be the first to the summit of Nanga Parbat, but ascend the spur Mummery in alpine style in winter” , says the mountaineer in a statement on its website, where notes that “I do not like competitions in mountain, especially in such delicate and difficult. Everything must be perfect. I can not leave with the idea of racing to get there first, the style is more important to me at this time. .. I decided a month later from the onset of winter especially for this reason, I wanted to get me off the pressure of having to be the first, I want to make my mountaineering “ .

Daniele Nardi, 37 years old, is credited with five eight-thousanders, including Mount Everest and K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer are counted. It has also opened new routes in Nepal, Pakistan and India, most notably in the online open Bhagiratti III in 2011.

Ralf Dujmovits to 4900 meters

Daniele Nardi, which will have the company of a chef and an assistant in his base camp, will neighbors Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski , even if you have opted for the Messner route for the climbing, which held German solo from the 5,000 meters , as previously announced. Ralf and Darek have been the first to settle in this base camp, which in summer was the scene of the terrorist attack that killed eleven people. Three armed cops remain with them in base camp to protect them .

The German and Polish have slept tonight at a height of 4900 meters, at the point already reached in its previous recognition of the mountain. It is located below where field 1 is usually installed in the Kinshofer route, just at the point you start your journey Messner laying plans Ralf up. If conditions are good today (last time they had was terrible: 70 to 80 km / h wind) had planned to continue to the point where C1 is usually installed in the Messner route and descend to base camp in the afternoon. As already reported Ralf has ruled Kinshofer route blue ice abundance in the lift line.

The Poles have reached 5700 meters

Across the mountains in the Rupal side, the Polish expedition has been the early bird this year and has taken the lead in altitude ascended so far: they celebrated Christmas dinner in field 1 (5100 meters), passed one night at 5,500 meters which have been termed C1A and have even reached 5,700 feet of a deposit of material.

In its fourth winter in the Nanga Parbat, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski have traveled in good company. His team consists of six people in total. The climbers Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj and field assistants based Dzikowski Michal and Michal Obrycki complete the expedition, bearing the slogan solidarity Justice For All (Justice for All), and was financed by 80% thanks to a successful micromecenaje campaign.

Simone Moro is already in Pakistan

Finally, the issue of Simone Moro , David Göttler and Emilio Previtalihas traveled to Pakistan during the past weekend. Both Italian and German are installed imminently at base camp Rupal side of from where they will try to climb the Schell Route, which will coincide with the Poles.

original source:Desnival.com

Three expeditions to attempt Nanga Parbat this winter

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ISLAMABAD, Nov 20: Undeterred by its reputation of killer mountain and the unfortunate death of climbers in late June, expeditions were returning to capture Nanga Parbat this winter.

All three expeditions from Poland, Italy and Germany had got permission to climb the world’s ninth highest peak from the western end of the Himalayan Range ending in Pakistan.

Simone Moro, a respected name among the mountaineers, is leading the Italian expedition. He is known for his first ever winter ascents of three of the eight thousanders (peak above eight thousand metres), the Shisha Pangma in China in 2005, Makalu, on the border of Nepal and China in 2009 and then the Gasherbrum II in Pakistan in 2011.

German climber Ralf Dujmovits who is also attempting the Nanga Parbat this winter was also arriving into Pakistan with the Italians and the Poles in December.

In 2009, he became the 16th person in the world to have captured the peaks of all the 14 eight thousand plus mountains in the world. His wife Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, an Austrian mountaineer, became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight thousanders in 2011, and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters.

Member Executive Council, Alpine Federation of Pakistan, Karrar Haidri explained how Nanga Parbat was always more attractive for mountaineers than the other four eight thousand plus peaks.

“Since Nanga Parbat is situated in the open zone, far from the border, the climbers cannot hire a liaison officer from the armed forces. This saves the expeditions some $3, 000 to $3, 500,” said the official explaining how accessing the mountain was also the easiest, compared with the other four days hike from the road to its base camp.

Karrar Haidri elaborated on how the government reduced the royalty fees by five per cent in the winter from December to February only against the $7, 000 from a seven-member team in the summers.

Five expeditions attempted to summit the eight thousanders in the last winter December-February 2012-2013.

Although the Poles were successful by becoming the first ever climbers to win Broad Peak in March 2013, only two climbers returned safely to base camp to tell their story. The other two died above the 7, 000 meters death zone. The body of one of the climbers was recovered later in the summer. The other was believed to have fallen in a crevasse.

Nonetheless, the AFP has proposed to the Gilgit-Baltistan Council to wave off fees for all climbers whose attempts to Nanga Parbat were abruptly cancelled after the ten mountaineers were killed at its base camp in June, 2013.

“It is a fair thing to offer to the climbers who had to go through a difficult experience. The AFP will propose this at the GB Council meeting when it meets next week,” said Karrar Haidri.
original source.dawn.com

Mt.Everest,Grave to over 200 Dead Bodies

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Mount Everest is the most popular and most recognized mountain in the world. It is located in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas with its highest point reaching 8848 meters above sea level. Mount Everest has been a climbing challenge that many climbers have dreamed of completing, reaching the top being the ultimate prize. You always hear of those who do reach the peak but no so much of those who tried and failed.

Image courtesy: Edmund Hillary (source :www.news.nationalgeographic.com)
Image courtesy: Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay
(source: www.images.nationalgeographic.com)

The first successful ascent took place on May 29th, 1953 by two men names Tenzing Norgay, Edmund Hillary. Since then many have attempted the climb and have not come down. One man that still remains near the top is David Sharp. David attempted the climb in 2005. He got very close to the top then decided to step into a cave to rest. The cave is known as Green Boots Cave. He laid there too long and ended up freezing to the point where he could not move. 30 other climbers past him by some saying they heard moans. One climber went into the cave and was able to talk to David. The climber took David out into the sun in hopes of thawing him to the point he would be able to move. Once realizing David wouldn’t recover, the climber was forced to leave him behind to die. David’s body still remains in the cave and is used as a guide point to other climbers.

The body of David Sharpe lies in the ‘Green Boots’ cave
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net

The cave is know as Green Boots because the body of “Green Boots” (an Indian climber who died in 1996) lies near the entrance to the cave that all climbers pass on their way to the peak. Green Boots now serves as a location marker that climbers use to estimate how close they are to the summit. Green Boots became separated from his climbing party in 96 and sought a mountain overhang to use as protection from the harsh elements. He literally just sat there shivering in the cold until he froze to death. The high wind has since blown his body over into a laying position hiding his face in the snow. Many climbers will surround the dead with rocks and packed snow to attempt to protect them from the elements.

The body of Green Boots
Image source: www.sometimesinteresting.files.wordpress.com

Francys Arseniev, was an American women who fell while descending with a group of climbers (one of which was her husband Sergei). Story goes she pleaded with passerby’s to aid in rescuing her. It wasn’t until a little later while climbing down a steep section of the mountain when her husband noticed she wasn’t behind him. Knowing that he didn’t have enough oxygen to go back for her and return to base camp, he bravely chose to turn back anyways to find his missing wife. He unfortunately didn’t get a chance to save her or even say goodbye. He fell to his own death in his heroic attempt of saving her . However, two other climbers did successfully reach her but attempting to carry her off of Mount Everest would’ve most likely ended with all three of them dying. All they could do was comfort her to the best of their ability for a while before leaving her to die alone. Of course they felt terrible about leaving her so in honor of her bravery, they climbed back up the mountain eight years later vowing to find the body and cover her in an American flag . They were able to complete their mission. After all known details of the horrendous climb became public, it was realized that Francys Arseniev was the first woman from the United States to reach the summit of Mount Everest without the assistance of bottled oxygen.

Sergei & Francys
Image source: www.sometimesinteresting.files.wordpress.com
Francys memorial
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net

Many other bodies lay on Everest in twisted positions from falls off of trails. They are left as reminders to other climbers of their efforts to reach Everest peak. Other bodies are still in the resting positions from the climbers leaning up against rocks or snow banks. The oldest corpse is from 1924, a man by the name of George Mallory. He was the first person to attempt the climb. His remains were identified in 1999.

Body of George Mallory who died in 1924
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net

Even with modern-day technology the number of climbers dying on Mount Everest continues to rise. In 2012 alone , the following climbers died in their attempts: Dawa Tenzing (exhaustion), Karsang Namgyal (exhaustion), Ramesh Gulve (exhaustion), Namgyal Tshering (fell into a crevasse), Shriya Shah–Klorfine (exhaustion), Eberhard Schaaf (Cerebral oedema), Song Won-bin (fell), Ha Wenyi (exhaustion), Juan José Polo Carbayo (exhaustion), and Ralf D. Arnold (broken leg resulted in exhaustion). In 2013, the deaths continued with the following climbers meeting an unfortunate demise: Mingma Sherpa (fell into a crevasse), DaRita Sherpa (exhaustion), Sergey Ponomarev (exhaustion), Lobsang Sherpa (fell), Alexey Bolotov (fell), Namgyal Sherpa (unknown), Seo Sung-Ho (unknown), and Mohammed Hossain (unknown).

Image source: www.altereddimensions.net
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net
Image source: www.altereddimensions.net

All said, over 200 climbers have died on Everest most from avalanches. Most bodies still remain on the mountain frozen in time.May the souls of the dead rest in peace.

Read more: http://www.unbelievable-facts.com/2013/10/mount-everest-grave-to-over-200-dead.html#ixzz2lNZRKxyJ

to know about Karakorum Adventure,just click the LINK and Karakorum : http://karakorumexpedition.com/home

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BEYOND THE HEIGHTS,A documentary film about First Pakistani woman Mt. Everester

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“BEYOND THE HEIGHTS” SHOWCASING THE BRAVE FACE OF PAKISTANI WOMEN ” A Documentary film,A true story of journey of Passion, devotions,determinations and PATRIOTISM, ..https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beyond-the-Heights-Official/569461146398931- is a Documentary film in the Making which portrays a young brave Pakistani female climber,who through her Adventure expeditions aims to empower women . the story is about a village girl, a muslim girl and less resources how her brother encourages her to adopt mountain climbing as her profession and becomes first Pakistani woman to chose mountain climbing as profession, she starts with less skills and No proper equipment for mountain climbing but then after three years of climbing summer and winter than set a historical expedition to Mt.Everest for Gender Equality & Women Empowerment, she then reaches to the summit of worlds tallest mountain in the age of 22, being first PAKISTANI FEMALE TO SUMMIT MT.EVEREST 8848M ON MAY 19TH 2013 IN A YOUNG AGE OF 22, THIS IS A GREAT FEAT OF BRVERY,SHE IS ALSO FIRST FEMALE FROM PAKISTAN TO CLIMB HIGHER THAN 7000M,HER BROTHER AND HERSELF CLIMB FOR GENDER EQUALITY & SPECIALLY FOR WOMEN EMPOWERMENT,SHE SAYS”IF A GIRL CAN CLIMB MOUNTAINS,CAN DO ANYTHING POSITIVE” the film will be ready 3rd week of December and will have a premier for the Documentary film! this film is yet another historical adventure documentary in Pakistan adventure history, http//:www.pakyouthreach.com/-mteverest8848m-expedition-2013

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BEYOND THE HEIGHTS,A documentary film about First Pakistani woman Everester

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http://https://vimeo.com/52640690 https://vimeo.com/52640690

“BEYOND THE HEIGHTS” SHOWCASING THE BRAVE FACE OF PAKISTANI WOMEN ” A Documentary film,A true story of journey of Passion, devotions,determinations and PATRIOTISM, ..https://www.facebook.com/pages/Beyond-the-Heights-Official/569461146398931- is a Documentary film in the Making which portrays a young brave Pakistani female climber,who through her Adventure expeditions aims to empower women . the story is about a village girl, a muslim girl and less resources how her brother encourages her to adopt mountain climbing as her profession and becomes first Pakistani woman to chose mountain climbing as profession, she starts with less skills and No proper equipment for mountain climbing but then after three years of climbing summer and winter than set a historical expedition to Mt.Everest for Gender Equality & Women Empowerment, she then reaches to the summit of worlds tallest mountain in the age of 22, being first PAKISTANI FEMALE TO SUMMIT MT.EVEREST 8848M ON MAY 19TH 2013 IN A YOUNG AGE OF 22, THIS IS A GREAT FEAT OF BRVERY,SHE IS ALSO FIRST FEMALE FROM PAKISTAN TO CLIMB HIGHER THAN 7000M,HER BROTHER AND HERSELF CLIMB FOR GENDER EQUALITY & SPECIALLY FOR WOMEN EMPOWERMENT,SHE SAYS”IF A GIRL CAN CLIMB MOUNTAINS,CAN DO ANYTHING POSITIVE” the film will be ready 3rd week of December and will have a premier for the Documentary film! this film is yet another historical adventure documentary in Pakistan adventure history, http//:www.pakyouthreach.com/-mteverest8848m-expedition-2013

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