Web Desk.Nanga Parbat Winter seems the script for a movie: in a shed two solo climbers, each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side two expeditions with very different-sponsorship classic micropatronage (crowdfunding) budget holders – share route.
The Nanga Parbat, missing for eight thousand penultimate climb in winter, it seems the script for a film in a shed (Diamir) Two climbers alone ( Ralf Dujmovits and Daniele Nardi ), each by a different route. Neither has been quick to publicize your project: Ralf was announced the same day that started in Germany, Daniele Nardi this weekend. On the other side (Rupal) two expeditions ( The North Face directed by Simone Moro andPolish ) with very different economic brackets - traditional sponsorshipand crowdfunding ( crowdfunding ) – shared route. A path in which it is possible to remain still remains fixed strings only climb on last season to this ochomil. In everyone’s mind (though more on those who remain in the Diamir side of) the murder of 11 people in the base of this slope field at the end of last June. To the dangers of the mountain climbers (and staff accompanying them at base camp cooks, etc …) have to add the possibility of another terrorist attack. Staying in the same place a few months ago 11 people were killed and psychologically hard … To our knowledge, at least Darek Zaluski and Ralf Dujmovits are “escorted” at base camp by three armed police with Kalashnikov .
Italian Daniele Nardi has announced his return to Nanga project this winter
Nanga Parbat has gained a new tenant this winter in the figure Daniele Nardi . The Italian climber joins the cast of expeditions looking to get the first winter ascent of the mountain. It will be the fourth attempt this expedition Pakistani peak 8126 meters this winter, in addition to the Polish team, Simone Moro and Ralf Dujmovits.
Plans passed by Daniele Nardi and Mummery spolón the Diamir side.This is the same route that already tried last winter, then by the French alpinist climber Elisabeth Revol . Both reached a peak of 6450 meters before retiring because of poor weather conditions. His intention this year is to face the mountain alone, although it has not closed the door to his partner last season decides to change his mind and back this time.
“I decided to split a month later to get me off the pressure to be first, I want to make my mountaineering”
It is noteworthy that Daniele Nardi has scheduled his trip with a significant delay with respect to the other expeditions. No travel to Pakistan until 20 January. “My main goal is to be the first to the summit of Nanga Parbat, but ascend the spur Mummery in alpine style in winter” , says the mountaineer in a statement on its website, where notes that “I do not like competitions in mountain, especially in such delicate and difficult. Everything must be perfect. I can not leave with the idea of racing to get there first, the style is more important to me at this time. .. I decided a month later from the onset of winter especially for this reason, I wanted to get me off the pressure of having to be the first, I want to make my mountaineering “ .
Daniele Nardi, 37 years old, is credited with five eight-thousanders, including Mount Everest and K2 and Nanga Parbat in the summer are counted. It has also opened new routes in Nepal, Pakistan and India, most notably in the online open Bhagiratti III in 2011.
Ralf Dujmovits to 4900 meters
Daniele Nardi, which will have the company of a chef and an assistant in his base camp, will neighbors Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski , even if you have opted for the Messner route for the climbing, which held German solo from the 5,000 meters , as previously announced. Ralf and Darek have been the first to settle in this base camp, which in summer was the scene of the terrorist attack that killed eleven people. Three armed cops remain with them in base camp to protect them .
The German and Polish have slept tonight at a height of 4900 meters, at the point already reached in its previous recognition of the mountain. It is located below where field 1 is usually installed in the Kinshofer route, just at the point you start your journey Messner laying plans Ralf up. If conditions are good today (last time they had was terrible: 70 to 80 km / h wind) had planned to continue to the point where C1 is usually installed in the Messner route and descend to base camp in the afternoon. As already reported Ralf has ruled Kinshofer route blue ice abundance in the lift line.
The Poles have reached 5700 meters
Across the mountains in the Rupal side, the Polish expedition has been the early bird this year and has taken the lead in altitude ascended so far: they celebrated Christmas dinner in field 1 (5100 meters), passed one night at 5,500 meters which have been termed C1A and have even reached 5,700 feet of a deposit of material.
In its fourth winter in the Nanga Parbat, Tomasz Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski have traveled in good company. His team consists of six people in total. The climbers Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj and field assistants based Dzikowski Michal and Michal Obrycki complete the expedition, bearing the slogan solidarity Justice For All (Justice for All), and was financed by 80% thanks to a successful micromecenaje campaign.
Simone Moro is already in Pakistan
Finally, the issue of Simone Moro , David Göttler and Emilio Previtalihas traveled to Pakistan during the past weekend. Both Italian and German are installed imminently at base camp Rupal side of from where they will try to climb the Schell Route, which will coincide with the Poles.